The Best Place to visit in INDIA

The Best Place to visit in INDIA

Auli
Carve The Slopes

There are many who say that the slopes and the quality of snow in Auli compare with the best in the world. Auli lies in Uttaranchal and nestles in the Garhwal Himalayas. The slopes are flanked by stately conifers and oaks and adding to the thrill of skiing is a 180-degree view of the majestic Himalayan peaks of Nanda Devi (7,817 m), Kamet (7,756 m), Mana Parvat (7,273 m) and Dunagiri (7,066 m), seemingly only a snowball's throw away.

Unlike in the olden days, much of the equipment here is state-of-the-art. A 500 metre long ski-lift and an 800 metre long chair-lift link the upper and lower slopes and snow beaters and
snow-packing machines maintain the smoothness of the slopes. Skiers can enjoy almost 20 km of virgin slopes which provide excellent opportunities for cross-country and downhill skiing. The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) which owns and runs the resort (and three others in Uttaranchal-Dayara Bugyal, Mundali and Munsiyari) has beautifully located hotels here. It also rents out equipment and conducts skiing training courses, all at reasonable prices. It costs
less than Rs 300 per day to hire equipment while a seven-day course for freshers costs around Rs 4,000. The courses go on from January to March which is the best time to visit Auli.
Auli is also surrounded by great places to see. There is a four-kilometre ropeway that takes you to Joshimath, the gateway to Badrinath and the 'Valley of Flowers'. There are other places like the Chenab Lake, Vanshinarayan Kalpeshwar, Bhavisya Badri, etc.
Uttaranchal: Kumaon & Garhwal (HarperCollins Travel Guides)
Getting there: You can drive down from Delhi (500 kms) or from the nearest airport at Dehra Dun (300 km) , or take a bus from Haridwar (277 kms) which is also the nearest railhead.
Staying there: There are several decent hotels, but you should book into the one run by GMVN which is in the resort itself. , www.gmvnl.com.
Uttaranchal: Kumaon & Garhwal (HarperCollins Travel Guides) 
Garhwal: Home in the Himalaya 
Badri-Kedar yatra: A pilgrimage to the Garhwal Himalayas 
Glorious Garhwal 
Beautiful Garhwal: Heaven in Himalayas

Contact Us
Dehradun (Head Office)
GM (Tourism),
Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd.,
74/1, Rajpur Road, Dehradun-248001.
Ph.: 91-135-2740896, 2746817, 2749308, 2748478
Fax: 91-135-2746847
Email: gmvn[at]gmvnl.com, gmvn[at]sancharnet.in .

Rishikesh
AGM (Tourism),
Tourist Information Centre, Yatra Office,
Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd.,
Shail Vihar, Haridwar By Pass Road,
Rishikesh - 249201.
Ph.: 91-135-2431793, 2431783, 2435174
2430799, 2432648
Fax: 91-135-2430372.
Email: yatra[at]gmvnl.com, yatraoffice[at]sancharnet.in .

Tourist Economy of Uttaranchal
Uttaranchal, Driving Holidays in the Himalayas (Driving Holidays in the Himalyas)
The Beautiful India - Uttaranchal
Uttaranchal: Historical and Cultural Perspectives
Art and Architecture of Uttaranchal

Benaras
The City Of Light

If you are one of those neutered and sanitised Indians who washes rotis in four per cent diluted potassium permanganate solution and dips every opinion in the sauce of the Western reductionist world-view, you have exactly a second to turn the page. (We're being rude but realistic here). Go rinse your manicured digits in the latest aromatherapy finger-wash,
and forget we mentioned Benaras on this page. As for the rest, welcome to the oldest living city on earth. Also, welcome to the only city on the mighty Ganga that faces the East. Because it is the only place in its journey where the Ganga turns North. Which is why Benaras is Kashi, 'the city of light'.
Kashi: The City illustrious or Benaras
Encountering God - A Spiritual Journey from Bozeman to Benaras
Bismillah Khan and Benaras, the Seat of Shehnai

Sanskrit: kash, to shine. Go for a boat-ride before dawn and you will
see why: When the sun rises the city appears to be made of gold. It is the only city where the finest, absolutely the finest, Indian classical musicians in India must prove their mettle… before a crowd of the most critical music cognoscenti in the world. Free of cost!
This will happen during the Sankat Mochan Music Festival held in the month of Chaitra around Lord Hanuman's birth anniversary.
It is the only city where the drama of Lord Ram's story will unfold in Ramnagar in a style that puts every modern theatre experiment to shame: The crowd moves with the performers who move location according to the story. Grown men weep, children gawk in awe, cynicism is suspended. Ten kilometres away, you will discover an island of history: Sarnath.
The Buddha gave his first lecture here, in the Deer Park. 25 centuries ago. In the mists of a November morning you can almost hear him speak among the ruins.In the bowels of the city, you will eat India's finest chaat, savour India's finest mithaai, drink or eat bhaang legally and enjoy fakkadpan, buy India's finest silks, visit pandits who will tell you about your past 15 generations and future 15 generations. Varanasi. The city between rivers Varuna and Assi. The greatest tirtha (crossing point) from the material plane to the spiritual. It is the only city that keeps bamboos floating in the one-kilometre lake-calm surface of the Ganga, so that tired birds may alight and rest awhile.
It is the only city where the monkey will not be harmed, and a dead monkey accorded the same respect as a dead human being. Some call it a 'faithscape'. I call it the best tourist destination in
the world. Because it is the only place on earth where you will visit your past, present and future on the same day. -Kiran Khalap

Getting there: Air - The nearest airport is Babatpur (22 km away).
Taxis charge around Rs 200-250 to get to the city from there. Rail -
The main station is the Varanasi Junction or the Varanasi Cantonment.
The other station is Mughalsarai. Benaras is connected by road with
all parts of the state.
Staying there: Benaras is serviced by several good hotels like the Clark Varanasi, Taj Ganges, Radisson, Clarks Tower, Hotel Hindustan International or the Best Western Kashika.

www.up-tourism.com
Uttar Pradesh Tourism, Rajarshi Purshottam Das Tandon Paryatan Bhavan,
C-13, Vipin Khand, Gomti Nagar, Lucknow, U.P.
Ph : 91-522-2308916, 2308017 Fax : 91-522-2308937
E-mail : upstdc[at]bsnl.in upstdc[at]up-tourism.com, yatrup[at]bsnl.in

Binsar
Experience The Divine

The azure blue skies, cold mountain air and the red and gold interplayn trees indicated the onset of autumn in the hills. At a particular point on the Almora-Bageshwar road we find an all-time favourite spot for photographers. Deep in the Binsar bird sanctuary we come across the Khali estate, one of the most beautiful lodging options. This place offers a panoramic view of the six great peaks-Nanda Devi, Kedarnath, Chaukhamba, Nanda Kot, Panchchuli and Trishul. Nanda Devi is the tallest at 7,817 metres.A British officer in 1863 came upon this expanse of empty (khali) land and bought it. Since then the place has changed many hands. Jawaharlal
Tochter des Berges. Tragödie auf dem Nanda Devi.
Nehru's brother-in-law Ranjit Pandit found it in 1935 while visiting Nehru at Almora. Then a Gujarati businessman bought the place. The structure blends with the surrounding habitat. One can sit on the wooden logs that serve as chairs and tables while looking at the
snow-capped valley below. -Rajesh Mishra
Indian Himalaya Mountain Maps: Garhwal and Kumaon (Uttaranchal) Pindari and Milam Glacier Basins, Badrinath and Nanda Devi Areas: Sheet 8 (Leomann Maps)






Biodiversity conservation and the struggle for the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve.: An article from: Focus on Geography 

THE SIX MOUNTAIN-TRAVEL BOOKS: NANDA DEVI, ON THE MAP, UPON THAT MOUNTAIN, MOUNTAINS OF TARTARY, MOUNT EVEREST RECONNAISSANCE EXPEDITION 1951, LAND OF TEMPEST. 


Getting there: Binsar is about 27 km from Almora. The Ranikhet Express from old Delhi will take you to Kathgodam at the base of the Kumaon Himalayas. One can then hire a cab to Binsar 110 km away. By road:It's about 350 km from Delhi via Moradabad, Rampur and Kathgodam. For further details contact: Uttaranchal Tourism.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binsar_Wildlife_Sanctuary
http://almora.nic.in/accom.htm
Haridwar Rishikesh Yamunotri Gangotri Kedarnath Badrinath: Gateway to the Gods


Route Map from Rishikesh to Badarinath-Kedarnath India (Scale 1:250,000. In English and Hindi)


Indian Himalaya Mountain Maps: Garhwal, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Har-ki-dun and Mussoorie Area: sheet 7 (Ledmann Maps)


Badrinath and Kedarnath - The Dhaams in the Himalayas

Uttarkashi Tel:01374-274667

Adventure Tourism Information, Almora Tel:05962-237760,mb:9412998511

Adventure Tourism Information, Uttarkashi Tel:01374-274761

Staying there: You have the Club Mahindra Valley Resort, Binsar, the KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) tourist bungalow and the Mountain Resort at Khali Estate plus a range of state-run and private hotels to suit all kinds of budgets.

Head Office
Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd.,
Oak Park House
Tallital, Nainital
Phone No.: (05942) 236356, 236209, 235700
Fax No.: (05942) 236897
E-mail: kmvn[at]kmvn.org
kmvn[at]yahoo.com

Central Reservation Centre

Manager,
Centrral Reservation Centre,
C/O Parvat Tours
Near Rickshaw Stand
Tallital, Nainital-263001
Phone : (05942) 236374, 235656, 231435, 231436
Fax No.: (05942) 236374
E-mail: crc[at]kmvn.org

The Maroon Trail
Treading Buddha's path...

Once upon a historical time, there was born a prince in the region of modern Bihar who was not destined to rule. Even though his father, the Sakya king of Kapilavastu, shackled him to the pleasures of the palace, the prince, in a destiny foretold, renounced everything for a
begging bowl and the search for truth. That journey would see him travel as a mendicant and meditate for long periods till following Enlightenment, he would teach the world the benefits of a life of moderation, observed through what came to be known as 'the eight-fold path'.
Gautam the prince, became Buddha, 'the learned one' and his teachings became the tenets of Buddhism that after his death, split into two schools. His disciples in his lifetime and in the thereafter, spread the word of Buddha, but the greatest of the Buddha's converts, the
emperor Ashoka, took it upon himself to spread Buddhist edicts to places near and far. And so Buddhism came to travel to distant parts of Asia and thousands of years later is still recognised as a religion of pacifism. And it is in India that you will find all the major places associated with the life and after-life of the Buddha.

The Heritage of Nalanda

In Bihar Nalanda: This ancient university complex is the strongest indication that India was one of the greatest centres of learning in ancient times. Established during the 7th century BC, it is a sprawling but orderly complex of cells and classrooms where, it is estimated, 2,000 scholars and 10,000 students lived in austere environs, surrounded by a wealth of books on religion, history, philosophy and literature. The great library and the university were ransacked and burnt by invaders and all that remains today are extraordinary ruins showing the brickwork of the monastic cells that surround the courtyards where the scriptures were taught, as well as monastery walls with some of the sculptures intact. Time can be fruitfully spent at the government museum. Because it is so peaceful and the environment so tranquil, visitors
can spend the better part of a day here, though most tourist buses visit for just a couple of hours. Facilities in Nalanda are negligible, so it is best to come prepared with films and mineral water.
Staying there: Unless you're bent on camping here (hardly advisable in Bihar!), it's best to stay in Rajgir, 90 km away.Rajgir: This is a part of Bihar where if stones could speak, the rocky
hills would tell tales of India's history that have been drowned by Laloo Prasad Yadav and his predecessors antics. India's ancient kingdoms had their capitals in the east and Rajgir was the seat of the great Magadha empire. The Buddha would come here frequently for a bit of R&R and meditation, and its king, Bimbisar, was an early convert to Buddhism. His son, Ajatashatru, would imprison his father in the fort where he would also build a stupa-power and politics then were as corrupting as they are now!
That fort is still open to visitors, though little remains of its 6th century BC fortifications. Vulture's Peak, where the Buddha would turn the inward eye upon himself, is now approachable by a chair lift.There's a modern Buddhist temple too here, the Vishwa Shanti Stupa. Wonder if the Buddha would have approved of its architecture?
Travel info: Thanks to the Japanese taking an interest in the Buddhist circuit, you can stay at the Centaur Hokke, which is neat and clean, and offers 'oriental' cuisine that is noodles with sauces and curries constituting the Bihari equivalent of Punjabi Chinese. Bihar Tourism's
Hotel Gautam Vihar is the next best option. 
ARCHAEOLOGY OF PATLIPUTRA AND NALANDA
Bodhgaya: Perhaps the greatest cathedral of ancient Buddhism, Bodhgaya
has a complex of shrines, temples and monasteries, as well as archaeological remains including the second century BC wall that surrounded the site where the Buddha meditated under a peepul tree. Saplings of that original tree, now called the 'Bodhi tree', travelled as far as Sri Lanka and the Buddha's footsteps under the canopy of the thick branches have been permanently enshrined here. For it was here that the prince became a religious leader when he gained Enlightenment. Ever since, Bodhgaya has been the holiest of places on
the Buddhist circuit. Bodhgaya's 7th century temple is now the stellar attraction though
different countries where the Buddhist faith is practised, all have their own temples here. This gives the region an egalitarian view of Buddhism, at least as far as architecture is concerned. Gaya is 16 km away from Bodhgaya and is a place of not just Buddhist, but also Hindu
and Jain pilgrimage.
Travel info: 125 km from Patna, Gaya is a railhead. Bodhgaya has an ITDC hotel, the Bodhgaya Ashok, Bihar Tourism's Siddharth Vihar, and private hotels Sujata and Buddha International. The dining choices,considering the location, aren't all that bad.
Buddhist Cities in Early India: Buddha-Gaya: Rajagrha: Nalanda
Vaishali: If you have the time, a visit to Vaishali-largely ignored by most travellers-is well worth it because this is where the Buddha delivered his last sermon and announced his nirvana. A hundred years later, the second great Buddhist council was held at Vaishali. 
Art and Architecture of Nalanda 
There
are still places considered sacred by Buddhists trailing the leader's footsteps-such as a lotus pond, a stupa and an iron pillar-but few know that this is the birthplace of Mahavira, founder of the Jain faith, the other great religion that developed parallel to Buddhism.
Travel info: Best to stay in Patna, 55 km away.
In Uttar Pradesh
Sarnath: Close to Hinduism's holiest city, Sarnath is a tranquil retreat after the chaos of Benaras. Here, in the meditative calm and peace of large gardens close to a deer park, are ruins of a complex that date back to the 6th century BC, almost nothing of which is extant. The simple 6th century AD Dhamek Stupa and a recent temple are all that survives but the atmosphere is pervaded by a peace that is characteristic of Buddhism.
Travel info: Less than 10 km from Benaras, this excursion can last a couple of hours or the whole day depending on your frame of mind. Benaras is a major tourist hub with easy travel connections and a wide choice of hotels.
The Art of Nalanda: Development of Buddhist Sculpture Ad 600-1200
Sravasti and Kushinagar: Buddha spent 27 monsoons preaching in Sravasti, and turned it into a major seat of Buddhist learning. This was consolidated by Ashoka who built two pillars here, now in ruins.And it was at Kushinagar that the Buddha gave up his body, in an act
described as the mahaparinirvana. A huge reclining statue of Buddha at the Nirvana temple marks the event.
Ruins Of The Nalanda Monasteries At Burgaon: Subdivision Bihar, Zillah Patna (1872)

Contacts: Bihar State Tourism Development Corporation
(A Govt.of Bihar Undertaking)
Bir Chand Patel Path,
Patna. Pin code -800 001.
Bihar. India.
Phone: 91-0612-2225411, 2222622, 2210219.
Fax: 91-0612-2210242, 2236218.
Email: bstdc[at]sancharnet.in
Web Site: http://bstdc.bih.nic.in/
http://bstdc.bih.nic.in/
http://bstdc.bih.nic.in/Transport.htm
http://bstdc.bih.nic.in/Hotels.htm

ITDC Ashok Travels and Tours,
Tour Package & Transport (DELHI)
ATT Garage, Janpath Hotel
Janpath
New Delhi-110001
Tele No.:23349067, 23340070, Ext-2888/2889/2890
Fax: 23349066
PACKAGE TOURS/ FFMC : 23340070 Ext- 2814
E-mail: tours[at]attindiatourism.com
http://www.attindiatourism.com/contact.html

The Chadar
The Strangest Trade Route In The World

At the height of winter, the Zanskar river is stopped in its tracks,freezing to a thickness that can support the weight of a man. This frozen chadar provides the only physical means of contact and trade between the Zanskar valley and Leh during the winter. The trek takes one down the Zanskar gorge, walking through gigantic canyons inaccessible in any other season. En route, sections of the ice are so transparent that boulders are visible down in the riverbed. You can
walk to Padum or take the easier option of walking to Lingshed and back. Check the internet for the best options on how to enroll on one of these ice treks. Be warned! Not for the faint hearted.
Being a Buddhist Nun: The Struggle for Enlightenment in the Himalayas
 
 Ladakh und Zanskar 
Zanskar: A Himalayan Kingdom 

The Glass House A River Runs Through It In the lichee and mango orchards on the banks of the Ganga, 23 kilometres above Rishikesh on the road to Badrinath, Neemrana Hotels has created yet another splendid property on what used to be the gardens of the former Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal. The 16 rooms of The Glass House are spread over six cottages that overlook the Ganga in its swift run through Uttaranchal. There is an auspicious aura around the hotel because of its location-it is the only place where the Ganga flows northwards. The secluded nature of the property means that you have a long tract of the riverbank to yourself, as also a garden
filled with rare birds and butterflies. You can just laze here, fish in the river or if you are feeling up to it, go rafting. At night you have log fires and barbecues. The property has a private spring, whose water quality matches the best in the world. If you are looking for a quiet holiday, then this is the place for you.
Getting There: The nearest railway station is Hardwar from where one can take a cab. Or else you can drive the 294 km distance from Delhi.
Phone: 01378-269224. www.neemranahotels.com
Zanskar: The Hidden Kingdom (Large Print)
Landschaftsökologische Untersuchungen in Zanskar (German and German Edition)
No Problem Madam : On Foot Through Zanskar India
Zanskar
Exploring the vision and needs of Nuns in Ladakh and Zanskar.: An article from: Yasodhara-Newsletter on International Buddhist Women's Activities
Gesellschaft, Wirtschaft und materielle Kultur in Zanskar (Ladakh) (Beitrage zur Zentralasienforschung) (German Edition)
Ladakh und Zanskar: Lamaist. Klosterkultur im Land zwischen Indien u. Tibet (DuMont-Dokumente) (German Edition)
Historical documents from western trans-Himalaya Lahul, Zanskar, and Ladakh

Grande Island
Fun, Feni And Snorkelling

Mando on the Mandovi is old hat and Palolem is passe. Here's the hottest thing to do in the land of fun and feni-go snorkelling at Grande Island. Located off the south Goa coast, the island is a
one-hour's speedboat journey away, with schools of dolphins and seagulls to keep you company all the way. The best time to visit is from October to February when the waters are clear and the visibility is very good. On a good day, you can see the seabed, and some amazing marine life. The boat's crew will accompany you to the island and guide you through the day-long trip. The fee is Rs 12,000 for maximum six persons, including the snorkelling gear. As the speedboat anchors 25 metres away from the island, the crystal-clear waters and the secluded beaches on Grande Island (also called 'Bat Island' since bats are the main inhabitants) leave you
wondering whether you are in Goa or in Mauritius.Hop onto the dinghy, don your snorkelling gear and follow water-sports manager Nicholas Duarte into the waters. Before you know, you are swimming amidst hundreds of colourful fish, with coral reefs in the background. On a good day, you will see stingrays and turtles glide below you.
For the more adventurous, Grande Island has a great diving spot-a 20-year old wreckage about 15 metres deep, which is now the abode of exotic marine life. Certified divers can go visiting the insides of the wrecked ship. By the time you surface, the crew has your lunch ready (you can of course, go fishing for your own meal and they are only too happy to cook your catch for you).
Spend the afternoon walking along the secluded beaches of Grande Island or just soaking in the winter sun. As reluctant as you are to go back, remember the dolphins are there to keep you entertained along the way. -Aruna Rathod
Getting there: Unless you have your own boat and know the local waters, the best option is to hire a speedboat at The Leela's WaterSports Centre.
Staying there: Nestled amidst 75 acres of lush tropical gardens and lagoons, is The Leela-one of the finest beach resorts in the world. Special package rates are offered for joint bookings of room and water-sports facilities. The Leela Goa : 0832- 2871234

Goa Aquatic
Sports Private Ltd. Dive Centre:
Little Italy, 136/1 Guaravaddo, Calangute, Goa 403516
Tel - 9822685025
email - contact[at]goaaquatics.com,
www.goadiving.com
Goa Beaches Encounter (Best Of)
Dive Goa
Contact Ajey Patil
Cell phone: +91-93250 30109
Email: divegoa[at]gmail.com
Village Goa: A Study of Goan Social Structure and Change
Dive Goa Office:
6th floor, Building B,
Adwalpalkar Shellter,
Caranzalem, Panaji,
Goa - 403002
Tel: +91-93250 30110
Tel: +91-832-2463757

Dive Shop Address:
H2O Watersport Centre,
Baina beach,
Vasco da Gama,
Goa
A Taste of Goa (Taste of India)
barracuda diving
Address:
Cidade De Goa,
403004 Goa
Waters: Indian Ocean
Telephone number: +91 832 221133
Fax number: +91 832 223303
E-Mail: barracuda[at]vsnl.com
Homepage: www.barracudadiving.com

Gulmarg
Teeing off in paradise

For decades, it remained a frozen wonder. But now, the beauteous vale has opened up yet again, perhaps even more tempting for all the years that it has been beyond reach. Gulmarg, a high meadow and with one of the highest golf courses in the world rests on the shoulder of a corpulent mountain, visible from most parts of the Kashmir valley. The approach from Srinagar is straight and grand, an arrow-road running gently up and up until you hit Tangmarg at the foothill, pick up your snow boots if you need any, and a pony if you want one, and spiral up.
Gulmarg's best-known activity is skiing and sledging but when there is no snow, you can golf or go up what they call the 'Gondola', which is really a ropeway ride up a higher slope which offers a fascinating view of the snow scape above the Khilanmarg meadow and beyond. But perhaps the best Gulmarg activity is to just walk. It can be even better if you remember not to leave paper and plastic in your wake.
Getting there: Air - Srinagar is well connected by flights with Delhi, Jammu, Ahmedabad and Mumbai. The airport is 14 km from the city. Rail - The nearest railhead is Jammu Tawi, 305 km, which is well-connected to major stations. Road -A leisurely drive from Srinagar would take
you three hours, a hurried one, two. Gulmarg is do-able from Srinagar in a day.
Staying there: Try the Hotel Highlands Park or the Hotel Hilltop, both three-star places.
www.jktourism.org, www.jktdc.com
In The Hoofprints Of Marco Polo: A Ride From Srinagar To Peking In 1905
Market Geography of Kashmir: A Case Study of Srinagar
Tourist and Trekking Guide to Ladakh and Zanskar: Including Karakoram and Srinagar Valley

Hampi
Everything you ever wanted out of an off-track holiday
Hampi Travel Guide

Hampi Ruins
The ruins of the Vijayanagar kingdom based at Hampi are to put it mildly, enthralling. The landscape is like something out of a surrealist dream, as if the children of a tribe of giants had used the landscape as a playground, using huge boulders for toys. In the middle of this, the Tunghabhadra river alternates between a torrential overflow and turbid trickle. And breathtakingly, an entire complex of palace and temple, representing some of the finest human achievements of sculpture in South India, sit in the middle of it, almost incidentally. Hampi is the kind of place where you can get a hands-free massage or a Kerala massage; where you can find Israeli muscle boys and Wicca worshippers rubbing amicable shoulders; where the pasta is handmade and the day follows the cycle of the Virupaksha temple while the nights follows the cycle of interesting vegetal material.
New Light on Hampi: Recent Research at Vijayanagara
Vijayanagara Empire: Origin of Vijayanagara Empire, Ancient City of Vijayanagara, Battle of Raichur, Battle of Talikota, Haridasa, Vijayanagara Empire ... architecture, Vijayanagara,Hampi
Splendours of the Vijayanagara Empire: Hampi
Relics of the Vijayanagar glory ; or, Never to be forgotten Hampi ruins as a relic of the magnificent Hindu empire of South India in medieval times, in pictures
Getting there: The nearest airport is Bellary (74 km). Other airports in the vicinity are Belgaum (190 km) and Bangalore (353 km). The nearest railway station is Hospet (13 km). From Hospet, you can get to Bangalore, Mysore and Hubli.
Hampi: The fabled capital of the Vijayanagara Empire
See India: Guide To Hampi
Hampi - Vijayanagar - The Temple of Vithala (book and folio : complete maps and architectural plans)

Staying There: You can stay in Hospet and take a bus out or you can live at the Mayura Bhuvaneshwari run by the KSTDC near the Kamalapuram bus stand, about 2 km from the site itself. There are many guesthouses in Hampi itself but the electricity is erratic and the rooms arespartan (to put it mildly). http://kstdc.nic.in/
Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation
# 49, 2nd Floor, Khanija Bhavan, West Entrance, Race Course Road,
Bangalore - 560 001, KARNATAKA, INDIA.
Telephone: 91-080-2352901 / 2352902 / 2352903,
Fax : 91-080-2352963
Email : kstdc[at]vsnl.in
Temples of Hampi

Hampi: A medieval metropolis
Hampi-Vijayanagar: The Temple of Vithala
Sculptural art of Hampi

Hyderabad
City of pearls

The very mention of the name of the city brings to mind sizzling, spicy Hyderabadi biryani, a quaint way of speaking Hindi-like Mehmood used to in his films; the Charminar; Ramoji film city; the Golconda fort; innovative Kondapally dolls of lightweight wood and last but not the least, the serene Hussain Sagar lake that runs parallel to the train tracks. From Hyderabad travel 166 km south to the important Buddhist centre of learning Nagarjunakonda. It is a small, oblong island that lies in the middle of the Nagarjunasagar lake. Earlier called 'Vijayapuri' it was the capital of the Lakshavaku kingdom. The Buddhist relics found here date back to the 3rd century AD and were discovered in 1926. Today this area is 'Nagarjunasagar', named after
Acharya Nagarjuna, the founder and father of Mahayana Buddhism. The remains that revealed the Mahachaitya, the most sacred (and also the earliest Buddhist structure) of the Stupas, have been reconstructed and carefully preserved at Nagarjunakonda, which is today a unique
island museum. This place is also known for the Nagarjunasagar dam, built across the Krishna river and the highest masonry dam in the world.




The Nizam: The Origin and Future of the Hyderabad State, Being the Le Bas Prize Essay in the University of Cambridge, 1904 [1904 ]
Modern Hyderabad (Deccan)
Hyderabad, India: History of Hyderabad (India), Geography of Hyderabad, Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation, Transport in Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, Education in Hyderabad

 
Getting there: Hyderabad is well connected by rail and air to all parts of the country. Nagarjunakonda is well connected by buses to Hyderabad.
Staying there: Hyderabad has dozens of hotels to suit every budget. At
Nagarjunakonda APTDC, Vijay Vihar Complex 08680-77362 or the APTDC's
Project House 08680-76540. http://www.tourisminap.com/
http://www.tourisminap.com/information.htm

Corporate Office

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC)

"Tourism House", # 3-5-891, Himayatnagar, Hyderabad - 500 029. Andhra Pradesh, India. Tel: +91 40 2326 2151 / 52 / 53 / 54 / 57 Fax: +91 40 23261801

E-mail:info[at]tourisminap.com

Jaisalmer
The river that went away

This is the land of Moomal, the princess whose heart was stone until Prince Mahendra melted it. With the help of a maid, he succeeded in winning her love until one night he arrived to find his beloved in the arms of another youth. Of course, this was only Moomal's sister who often cross-dressed and had spent the night in her sister's room, waiting to meet Moomal's dashing lover. Anyway, the dashing lover dashed away with his hopes and dreams dashed until Moomal also cross-dressed and played a game of choker with her beloved and explained all. They were reunited but they couldn't take it and died of happiness. The river Kak which flowed past Moomal's palace couldn't take it either and it died too. In the evening, look west and you will
see how Jaisalmer got its name: The Golden City. The sand-yellow buildings begin to glow in the setting rays of the sun. This is the desert town to beat all desert towns, rising like a heat-induced illusion in the middle of the dunes. Jaisalmer was once the overland
halting point for caravans. If you like your history a little older, try a day-trip to Akal Fossil Park with its 18 fossilised trees or go and let the dunes mesmerise you.Jaisalmer stands on the edge of a desert, its fort lowering over the town. Outside the city, the Thar desert begins. There is nothing quite like Jaisalmer anywhere in the world. And if Jaisalmer seems to know
this a little too well, perhaps that can be forgiven too.



Jaisalmer: City of Golden Lights and Strange Spirits 
Jaisalmer 
Jaisalmer: Art, Architecture and Tourism 
Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer: Desert Kingdoms 
History of Jaisalmer 
Jaisalmer Folklore History & Architecture 
The desert triangle: Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Bikaner 
Way of life in desert (camel safari in Jaisalmer) 
 Jaisalmer, the golden city 
 The flora of the Indian desert, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer
 The Ancient Chronology of Thar: The Bhattika, Laukika and Sindh Eras (Oxford University South Asian Studies) 

Getting there: You can get there by road since Jaisalmer is 390 km from Jodhpur and about 10 road hours from Jaipur. Jaisalmer is also accessible by train.
Staying there: You're spoilt for choice. There's everything from the five-star hotels to the flea-splattered lodges. Favourites include the Rajwada Palace, Hotel Dhola Maru, the Gorbandh Palace Hotel and RTDC's
Hotel Moomal.
www.rajasthantourismindia.com
http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in/new/site/index.htm

Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation LTD.

Jaipur:	Hotel Swagatam Campus, Near Railway Station, Jaipur-302006, Rajasthan (India) Tel.: +91-141- 2202586, 2203531,5114768/69 Fax: +91-141-2204065, 2201045 E-mail: rtdc[at]rtdc.in, cro[at]rtdc.in, cro[at]rajasthantourism.gov.in Website:http://www.rtdc.in,http://heritageonwheels.net.in TIB.Railway: Tel.:+91-141-2200778/1364,2315714 TIB.Central Bus Stand Tel.: +91-141-2206720
Delhi:	Rajasthan Tourist Office Ist Floor, Bikaner House, Pandara Road, New Delhi 110001 (India) Tel.: +91-11-23383837,23386069 Fax: +91-11-23382823 E-mail: delhi[at]rtdc.in, crodelhi[at]rajasthantourism.gov.in

Department of Tourism , Art & Culture
Government of Rajasthan
Govt. Hostel Campus, Paryatan Bhawan, M.I. Road
Jaipur - 302 001
Rajasthan (INDIA)
Tel. : 5110595-7
Fax. : 5110591

 






Kanha National Park
Home of the Barasingha

Kanha National Park is where Hindu mythology meets Project Tiger.Shravan Tal, a meadow near a lake within this sanctuary (in Madhya Pradesh) is where Raja Dashrath accidentally killed a young man called Shravan who was collecting drinking water for his aged, blind parents.
Much of what happens in the Ramayana is said to be a consequence of this event.The 2000 square kilometre park is among the country's greatest wildlife reserves not just for its pioneering efforts in conservation but also for its spectacular diversity of vegetation-deciduous
forests, savanna grasslands, hills, lakes, meadows and meandering rivers. It is home to the Barasingha, one of the world's most endangered species of deer. Though not easy to see, if you are lucky you can spot them grazing in the meadows. The chances of seeing a tiger are quite high on early morning elephant rides, or from vehicles both in the mornings and evenings. Other animals that are occasionally sighted include the sloth bear, leopards, wild dogs and variety of deer.
Getting there: By train or air to Jabalpur or Nagpur from where it is a six-hour car or bus ride.
Staying there: Krishna Jungle Resort 0761-401263; Machan Complex
07649-77584; MPTDC Baghira Log Huts www.mptourism.com

Karwar to Mangalore drive
Lost in time

The 350 km Karwar-Mangalore stretch of NH17 provides the opportunity for what is arguably one of the most spectacular coastal drives in the world. The wide, well maintained road skirts along dozens of pristine golden sand beaches, none of them as yet exploited by the tourism
industry. The Western Ghats are never too far away and you are constantly up and down the spurs and cliffs, which provide a spellbinding view of the shimmering blue Arabian Sea. The never-ending bridges over estuaries make this part of Karnataka as pretty as Kerala. With very little traffic on the road, you can even park the car along the bridge to take in the view-the sea on one side and the palm and mangrove-fringed river on the other. With virtually no tourists, this coastal stretch looks lost in time, its beauty undisturbed for thousands of years.
For those travelling to Goa, this can be a side trip of about three or four days. Wherever you are in Goa, the first stop as you drive south, Karwar, is just a few hours away. Once here, you can take in the scenic beaches or make a day trip to the Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary.
From Karwar, you head south to Gokarn which is a quaint little town 60 km away. It is made up of Kerala-style Brahmin houses with slatted wood balconies and, of course, has white sand beaches in the vicinity.
From Gokarn, the next stop should be 200 km south at Turtle Bay Beach Resort at Kundapura located on a virgin stretch of sand, sandwiched between the Arabian Sea on the west and the Sowparnika river on the east. Here you can snorkel, scuba dive, trek, boat ride or just laze.
You can also use this as the base to explore four other beaches in the area-Murudeshwar, Marwanthe, Malpe and Kaup all within 50 to 60 kilometres of each other. Unless you want to see Mangalore and proceed from there on to Kerala, we advise you to drive back to Goa from
Turtle Bay.
It's important you do this trip soon because the land-grabbing Indian Navy is building a behemoth of a base called 'Sea Bird' on the Karwar coast for which it plans to expropriate a large portion of the existing coastal highway. Lesser mortals will then be required to go on a new highway that would cut through the interiors.
Where to stay: Devbagh Beach Resort, Karwar 0838-226596,
www.junglelodges.com; Turtle Bay Beach Resort, Kundapura 08254-745422
www.turtlebayeco.com.

Kaziranga
Rhino run-in
Kaziranga, the rhino land
Botany of Kaziranga and Manas

The baby elephant was named with a certain lack of imagination, Raja. He was the star of Kaziranga, trotting around amid the tourists and begging food of them. Every star begets a host of hangers-on and his was a wiry old man selling bananas. Raja begged for food; the tourists
(harried and charmed simultaneously) bought bananas and everyone was happy. The other star of the Kaziranga show is the rhino. Make that rhinos. Great grey lumps of prehistoric animal, they were curiously immobile in the green landscape, standing against the silvery river as
if nothing would move them. When our elephants circled a bunch, they continued rooting in the grass, as if accustomed to the attention and the rat-tat-tat of cameras going off. On the jeep safari, the next morning, a young man from Delhi decided that he needed a closer look. He hopped off the back of the jeep and ran down the slope towards the river. The grey stillness evaporated like the morning mist and suddenly hundreds of kilos came pounding towards him. He escaped but only because the guide managed to cause a diversion and the jeep started on time.
Kaziranga National Park is spread over 430 kilometres on the southern bank of the Brahmaputra. Rivulets and shallow lakes and the semi-green forested highlands blend into marshes and flood plains covered with tall elephant grass. The rhinos are best seen from the back of an elephant, early on a winter morning. The park is closed in summer.

Fauna & flora of Kaziranga: A guide for the National Park

Getting there: The Assam Tourist Department organises a two-day tour that has food and stay and one safari thrown in. The closest town and airport is at Jorhat 90 km away. Guwahati airport is 220 km away. Butthe road is picturesque with greenery on both sides. The nearest
railway stations are Jorhat (90 km), Furketing (75 km) and Guwahati (200 km).
Staying there: Almost all the accommodation is pretty much the same:clean and spartan. Aranya 03776-62429; Wild Grass Luxury Resort 03776-62437.
www.assamtourism.org

Khajuraho
Temples of love

What don't you know about Khajuraho? That the 84 temples built by the Chandelas in just 150 years lay in silence for hundreds of years? That it was rediscovered by the British and brought to the attention of the world? That it has some exquisite sculptures on its walls? That some
of it is erotic and some of it is almost outlandish in its depiction of the sexual acts? That the scorpion on the thigh of the woman is an indication of lust? That this might be a celebration of the wedding of Shiv and Parvati? Two things, perhaps. It has some astonishing food.
There's a Swiss restaurant run by a family that has been adopted by a Swiss lady and does exquisite roesti. Also great Israeli food. And it has a new tribal museum with some stunning tribal artefacts which you are allowed to hold and touch and even use. It also sells some
stunning tribal paintings.
Getting there: Getting to Khajuraho involves long bus trips over small country roads. Flying is a better option. There's a direct flight from Delhi. What more do you want?
Staying there: Some of the majors are represented here, Jass Trident, The Chandela (run by the Taj), and Clark's Bundela, but the favourites are Hotel Payal and Hotel Jhankar run by the MPTDC. MP Tourism 0755-2778383 2774340/2/3
www.mptourism.com
Khajuraho: A Study in the Culture Conditions of Chandella Society. 
Archaeological Museum, Khajuraho 
Divine Ecstasy: The Story of Khajuraho 
Sculptural Art of Khajuraho 
Khajuraho : The Art Of Love 
Erotic sculpture of Khajuraho 
 Pride of Medieval India: Khajuraho (Lastest Illustrated Guide)
Temples of Khajuraho (Architectural survey of temples)
Immortal Khajuraho

Kinnaur
A Gift From Heaven

Kinnaur is a breathtakingly scenic and sparsely populated region in Himachal Pradesh east of Shimla towards the Tibetan border. The Spiti and Satluj rivers flow through Kinnaur to meet at Khab and become one, the Satluj. Scores of flowing streams feed these rivers which run through the several valleys here like the Sangla, Baspa and the Lippa. The picturesque villages around here are set against thick forests, orchards and fields. The area nestles at the base of two of the
world's great mountain ranges, the Zanskar and the Greater Himalayas. Kinnaur is also home to some of India's oldest legends and the religion of its people is a remarkable mix of Hinduism and Buddhism.
Ancient Hindu texts have gone to the extent of placing the people of Kinnaur, the Kinners, as halfway between men and gods. Local tradition maintains that Kinnaur with all its beauty fell from the clouds as a gift from the gods.
You can trek, fish or just take in the scenery around Kinnaur. There are bare basic hotels in most of the small towns and villages scattered around the region. Places to see include the Monastery at Reckong Peo, the district headquarters of Kinnaur, the Nako Lake. The
adventurous type would want to travel further east and north to the cold deserts of Spiti and Lahaul where the landscape and way of living has a distinct Tibetan influence. This even-more sparsely populated region filled with Buddhist monasteries, glaciers, lakes and gushing
rivers is inaccessible for a greater part of the year. The best time to come here, is between April and October. Of course, you've got to remember that most of this region is at an altitude of 2000 metres or more, so be prepared.

Exploring Kinnaur in the Trans-Himalaya

Exploring Kinnaur and Spiti in the Trans-Himalayas



Songs and Lives of the Jomo: Nuns of Kinnaur Northwest India. Women's Religious Expression in Tibetan Buddhism

Kanauras of Kinnaur: A schedule tribe in Himachal Pradesh
Indian Himalaya Mountain Maps: Himachal Pradesh Kalpa-Kinnaur, Gya, Spiti and Shimla North Area: sheet 6 (Leomann Maps)
Cultural History of Western Trans-Himalayas: Bashahar Kinnaur

Getting there: By bus or car from Shimla, the distances are long. Shimla to Sangla for example, is 350 kilometres.
Staying there: Visit the Himachal Pradesh government website:
www.himachaltourism.nic.in

Konark-Puri Marine Drive
Riding Through Casuarina Plantations

Konark and Puri are literally two ends of the spectrum. Given the relative closeness of their temple construction periods-Sun temple, Konark (13th century) and Jagannath temple, Puri (12th century)-it is interesting to note how differently the two centres have evolved over
time. With its teeming beaches and religious aura, Puri boasts of a continuous living tradition and is on every pious Hindu's itinerary. Konark, on the other hand, is today a town in ruins with only a few places to reside apart from the state tourism Yatri Niwas, despite its fame as a world heritage site. Most visitors to this architectural marvel prefer to stay at Bhubaneshwar, 66 kilometres away. Althoughwith its open, scantily populated streets and a pristine beach to
boot, it is a restful place to spend a few days. However, it is the stretch between these two temple towns that should rate as one of the most scenic drives in the country. The 40 km
stretch along the coastline passes through wind-swept sand dunes with casuarina plantations to keep the traveller company. Meandering rivers flowing into the Bay of Bengal add to the appeal. The beaches along the coast are untouched and the lack of traffic on the road makes for
a lovely drive. It's a great stretch to cycle along if you are a sporty type!
Mayfair Beach Resort at Puri on the marine drive is an excellent place to set up base. Top hotel chains such as the Taj and the Oberoi's were keen to set up shop but local environmentalists shot down the proposal. Here, aside from enjoying the virgin beaches on the stretch,
one can observe fishing hamlets that buzz with life, colour and adventure. Orissa has a great craft tradition and villages in the vicinity showcase beautiful murals on their walls and patta chitras (classical Orissa paintings done on specially prepared cotton cloth which is coated with a mixture of gum and chalk and polished before natural colours are applied). There is also a boat cruise that takes you down the river to the Bay of Bengal! -Rajesh Mishra


Konark master plan and tourist guide on golden triangle (Konark-Puri-Bhubaneswar)

Getting there: Nearest railhead: Puri. By road: From Bhubaneswar the
marine drive is about 70 kilometres


Staying there : Mayfair Beach Resort, Puri, 06752-224041, 224254,
224313, Toshali Sands, 06752-250571/2/3/4. For further details
contact: Orissa Tourism: 0674-2431299
www.orissa-tourism.com

Konkan Beach Drive
Ideal for a long trip

There is a certain beauty, and an uncertain charm to the beaches south of Mumbai along Maharashtra's Konkan coast. The infrastructure here is not as tourist-friendly as in neighbouring Goa, but you won't encounter the teeming millions either. The hotels around these beaches are very basic, and there isn't usually much more to do than the sea
and sand. A whistle-stop driving trip would be the ideal way of getting around.
There is virtually no traffic on the highway once you leave the industrial town of Chiplun. The NH17 is not a coastal road in Konkan and hence the beaches are usually a few kilometres off the main highway. It's better to follow a map and to keep a close watch of the
road signs and milestones. Murud Janjira, the first stop is 165 kilometres from Mumbai, a sleepy
coastal town with neat Indo-Gothic buildings. But it's Janjira hanging on tenaciously to Murud that makes the place remarkable. As you drive down the long winding road that spirals around a hillside and deposits you to the pier, unfolding to your right is a visual drama. A mellow
stretch of beach with an inky blue-going-on-black sea and the stark black stone ramparts of the Murud-Janjira Fort. The boat journey to the Janjira Fort is enjoyable, though the fort itself is in ruins.
This landscape is remarkable with hills on one side, coves and inlets and the ruins of the Kasa Fort on the other. Visit the Nawab's Palace in the afternoon- a striking Indo-Gothic palace whose interiors are reasonably well maintained, but not resplendent. 60 kilometres south is Harihareshwar where there are two splendid beaches, Harihareshwar itself and Srrivardan. Here you can also hire small boats, which take you to the northern part of Harihareshwar to
explore the land where the so-called 'Prime Ministers' of the Maratha Kingdom, the Peshwas originally dwelt.
The next stop should be Ganpatiphule at a distance of 175 kilometres which you should be able to do leisurely in less than three hours. The sand here is clean and the beach is yours. Clams, cockles and crabs may elbow for space, but that's about it. The shoreline is almost devoid of rocks, and the sea is clear and calm most of the time. But there are no lifeguards, so swim cautiously. Carry a sun hat as treesline only the edges of the beach. Make time for the Thebaw Palace and the Jaigad Fort. The palace is a sad and neglected structure, but look carefully and you will catch a fleeting glimpse of lost glamour. The palace was built for the exiled king and queen of Burma, who lived here from 1910 till their death five years later. Jaigad Fort on the
other hand, is a jaw-dropper. The 17th century fort stands on a cliff and offers an eye-popping view of the sea from all sides.Drive another 150 kilometres south and you will hit Tarkarli which
currently is being developed as one of Maharashtra's big tourist destinations. The beach here is near white and as picturesque as you would find anywhere in the world. Tarkarli is situated on the confluence of the River Karli and the Arabian Sea. The SindhudurgFort, located one and half kilometres in the sea from Malvan jetty is a must-see. Built by Shivaji in 1664, the fortress has the only temple dedicated to Shivaji in India. Also, get onto the MTDC houseboat which
gently sails on the lush green backwaters of the Karli river. Check out Deobagh Beach, a tiny strip of sand jutting out at the confluence of the creek (with a backdrop of a hillock) and the sea. And a few kilometres south is Vengurla and its blue waters and spectacular group of beaches. Hike to the famous Vengurla Rocks with its horseshoe-shaped beach made up of small coves with cliffs rising on both sides. Less than an hour from here, is Goa. -Swarupa Dutt
Where to stay :Murud, MTDC's Golden Swan Beach Resort
Harihareshwar MTDC Guest House ;
Ganapatiphule MTDC HolidayResort ;
Tarkarli MTDC Holiday Resort
www.mtdcindia.com
http://budgethotelsindia.blogspot.com/2007/12/hotels-at-dapoli.html
http://budgethotelsindia.blogspot.com/2007/12/hotels-at-ratnagiri.html

Kumarakom
Waterworld

As the placid epicentre of Kerala's backwaters, Kumarakom is a unique mix of canals, rivers and lakes that functions as a perennial aquatic thoroughfare and navigable waterway as well as the fountainhead of life in the Kuttanad rice bowl of Kerala.
Around 16 km from Kottayam town, Kumarakom is easily accessible by road, repaired into fine condition after Prime Minister Vajpayee's much publicised New Year sojourn two years ago. Water is the essence and lifeline of Kumarakom, starkly evident in the distinct lifestyle
of the people of Kuttanad, whose every breathing moment is governed by the unique geographical formation of backwaters, palm-fringed lakes, culverts, bridges, fishing nets, clumps of coir set to ret in the water, ducks swimming in formation... Much of life in Kumarakom is
forever on display on the water's edge-a fishing boat returning with the day's catch, bronzed workers emerging from the depths with baskets of sand, a boat laden with plastic ware making the rounds of houses, girls in housecoats washing the day's laundry at the stone steps on
the edge of the lake...
The Vembanad Lake, which stretches from Alappuzha to Kochi covering an area of 79 sq miles, forms Kerala's largest patch of backwaters. During the harvest festival of Onam, several water regattas-including the famous Nehru Trophy Boat Race at Alappuzha-take place on the
Vembanad Lake, when snake boats, manned by nearly 100 oarsmen each, fight it out to see who's king of the lake for that season.
The best way to experience the backwaters the way it is meant to be-slowly, leisurely, languidly-is to hire a kettuvallam, the traditional rice boat that has now been converted into a houseboat, with all modern conveniences, including solar water heating and lighting. They are a pricey, but well worth it, especially when you anchor in the middle of the lake at midnight and dine with the swells lapping gently at the boat. A one-day cruise will set you back by Rs
5000 for two persons, Rs 6000 for four, including food. The rates go all the way up to Rs 15,000. Also available are stationary houseboats at around Rs 1000 per apartment. Inquire at the KTDC office at Kumarakom Tourist Village (Tel: 0481-2525861). There are scores of
private operators too. Check out near the boat jetty or ask at your hotel.
A land-based activity worth checking out is a trip to the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, home to migratory species like the Siberian stork, egret, darter, heron and teal. While you can cruise along the outskirts of the sanctuary on a boat, walking through it is highly recommended. Along the 1.5 km walking track, you're sure to spot some rare birds, especially if you set out at dawn.
Almost all the hotels in Kumarakom are resorts of the star category and nearly all are built in the traditional architectural style of bygone Kerala-wooden naalukettu houses, some actually sourced from ancient central Travancore families (including those of writer Arundhati Roy, one of which you can see at Coconut Lagoon, the pioneering resort in the region, belonging to the Casino Group). Most also offer Ayurvedic massages and short sessions of yoga and meditation.
Most of the hotels serve Kuttanad's best-known dish-karimeen, the pearl-spot fish found only in the backwaters of Kerala. Try it fried or as a curry. Also worth sampling are the various dishes of duck, another Kuttanad speciality. -K G Kumar
Getting there: Nearest airports: Kochi (76 km), Thiruvanantha-puram
(106 km). Nearest railway station: Kottayam (16 km)
Where to stay: Coconut Lagoon (Tel: 0481-2525834, casino[at]
vsnl.com, Rs 4750-Rs 7000); Taj Garden Retreat (Tel: 0481-2524377,
retreat.kumara
kom[at]tajhotels.com, Rs 3300-Rs 3900); Golden Tulip Kumarakom Lake
Resort (0481-2524900, klresort[at]vsnl.com, Rs 6500-Rs 15000);
Waterscapes (kumarakom[at]vsnl.com, 0481-2525861, Rs 1750-Rs 3000

Lachung
Quiet Splendour

Lachung (which means "Big Pass") sits by a river, a quiet little town where the best restaurants are in dark wooden houses, where the only bright lights are the stars and the action is a meltwater flood or two. Lachung is in north Sikkim, 117 kilometres from Gangtok and just
15 kms from the Tibetan border. There is something about this place that grows on you; the gompa in the middle of the village has no name, the quiet flow of an onyx-coloured river, the riverine underbelly with its gloriously coloured stones, the sheer silence in the nights.
The best place for chhang (fermented beer made of millet) is nameless too; a house that people frequent in which light filters in through the curtains and there is meat drying in front of the fire. A five-minute walk and the last traces of civilisation are behind you. It is a place which in April and May sees an explosion of colours when at least 24 different types of rhododendron blossom. It's a place you might like to visit for its ability to take over your biorhythms with something a little more natural, a little more eternal. The rooms at the resort where I am staying smell deeply (and beautifully) of pinewood.-JERRY PINTO
Getting There: Lachung is five hours drive from Gangtok. Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim is connected by an all-weather road to Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Siliguri and also to all the district headquarters within Sikkim. The two nearest railway stations are at Siliguri (114 km) and
New Jalpaiguri (125 km) stabilising the link to Kolkata, Delhi, Guwahati, Lucknow and other important cities in India. The nearest airport is at Bagdogra in North Bengal (124 km).
Where to Stay: Blue Sky Group & Resorts 03592-225113; Dable Inn
03592-226050. Sikkim Tourist Information Centre 03592-222064.
Area Handbook for Nepal Bhutan & Sikkim 2ND Edition
Sikkim and Bhutan
Mountaintop Kingdom: Sikkim.
Sikkim: Three Decades Towards Democracy Evolution of the Legislative System
SIKKIM
Flora of Bhutan: Including a Record of Plants from Sikkim and Darjeeling: Orchids of Bhutan v. 3, Pt. 3

Lakshadweep
A Step Back In Time

If it's unusual destinations you're looking for and those that are not very far away from home, consider the Lakshadweep Islands. It's a privilege to introduce them to the uninitiated. To the initiated…
well, they'd rather keep it a secret. Like the islands have always been. The Lakshadweep islands are a set of 36 islands off the western coast of Kerala about 400 km from the mainland. Legend has it that the islanders learnt about Independence about a week later and to date they really don't worry too much about the mainland. The isles have always been sort of independent in their own existence and have only recently opened themselves to the world outside. These are our only coral islands with brilliant blue lagoons, blinding white and powdery coral sand, beautiful reefs and marine life that pops right out of Nat Geo and an all-pervading silence that shouts in its stillness.
The administration of this Union Territory decided to learn their lessons from the abuse that tourism initially caused at Andaman. Therefore, all efforts are made to ensure that tourism is promoted but not overly promoted. You will not find super-luxury resorts infesting
these beaches, or e-mail, mobile phones, newspapers, satellite TV and bars. What you have is endless blue-green lagoons, crisp sea breeze and water so clear that you can see the bottom 20 metres below the boat. It gets even better if you're snorkelling or diving in it. Apart from just lazing and converting yourself into the quintessential beach bum, you can dive, kayak, canoe, snorkel, fish, beach comb (it's not allowed to pick shells and coral though … banned y'know, schedule 01 and all that).Out of the 10 inhabited islands, Bangaram, Kadmat and Agatti are open
to visitors. -Seemant Saxena
Geo-Economic Survey of Lakshadweep
Andman and Nicobar and Lakshadweep Islands (Castes Tribes and Culture of India)
Lakshadweep (People of India. State series)
Vision of India -Kerala & Lakshadweep
The Muslim tribes of Lakshadweep Islands: An anthropological appraisal of island ecology and cultural perceptions
Sewn Boats of Lakshadweep

The Rahmani of M.P. Kunhikunhi Malmi of Kavaratti: A Sailing Manual of Lakshadweep

Andaman, Nicobar and Lakshadweep: An Environmental Impact Assessment

Getting there: AIR: Indian Airlines flies a 14-seater Dornier every day of the week except Sundays from Cochin and thrice a week from Goa to Agatti, Lakshadweep's only island with an airstrip. During the monsoons (when the boats stop plying between the islands) a Pawan Hans
chopper flies people between the islands. SEA: Ships start from Kochi and liaisoning is required to book seats on the ship. Apart from the Tipu Sultan, where you can get cabins with bunk beds, two new and faster ships have been introduced which seat 150 people in chair
car-like chairs within an air-conditioned lounge. Meals are served through the cafeteria (mention veg/non-veg preferences during booking) and in general, the journey is a good experience where you can spot dolphins, flying fish and great sunsets / sunrises at sea. PERMIT: Very much like a visa, the permit is issued through the concerned resort you're staying at and allows you on specific islands mentioned therein.
Staying there: Bangaram Island Resort: A 30-room resort run by Kerala's Casino group on a 128 acre, uninhabited island with a lagoon that's 7 kms wide! Rustic cottages with a verandah opening out to a glorious beach-cum-sea view. The resort has the only beach bar in Lakshadweep (it doesn't have any closing hours, a CMAS dive centre run by Lacadives which offers everything from basic lagoon dives to beginner courses. The resort can organise fishing trips, excursions to nearby isolated islands (you can get dropped off there with your
packed lunch to be picked up later), glass bottom boats. Agatti Island Beach Resort: It is a five-minute walk from the airport and has the best of both faces to a typical Lakshadweep island. You can see and go through the populated parts of typical island communities and the
resort itself is on the other end, which is almost cut-off from the 'town'. Activities and facilities pretty much include everything provided at Bangaram though you don't have the bar. You even have AC cottages there and the resort is reasonably priced. Kadmat Island
Resort: A rustic place run by Sports, the Lakshadweep administration's department of tourism, on the 14-km long island of Kadmat. It has a dive school run by Lacadives on the island where you can get qualified within a week to a decent first level of diving recognised worldwide.
The resort is very reasonably priced too. How to book: Lacadives at www.lacadives.com for diving plus room bookings at Bangaram and Kadmat; Casino Group at www.casinogroup.com
for reservations at Bangaram, Lakshadweep tourism at www.lakshadweeptourism.com for all information on Sports packages to accessible island resorts and ship bound packages.

Little Rann of Kutch
The small 'run'

While the Greater Rann of Kutch is now out of bounds, the Little Rann, or 'Nanhi Rann' as they call it here, is topography at its surreal best. Picture this: black earth, baked, caked and deeply fissured, as far as the eye can see. A 360-degree horizon, starkly featureless evening sun plays optical tricks on you, looking like a huge melting candle instead of the perfect orb that you're so used to seeing (if you see one at all). Demoiselle cranes-locally called Kunj wander in small flocks and with their plumage fluffed up, they walk like gauche debutantes at a ball. In the distance, the famed wild ass of Kutch eyes you cautiously, showing you its intriguingly patterned
orange-and-white flank. Up above, a hungry Pale Harrier is hovering,sure to find a gerbil for dinner. After all, you can run, but you can't hide, in the Rann. The Little Rann of Kutch Wildlife Sanctuary is all of 5,000 square kilometres. Apart from the wild ass and the cranes, the sanctuary supports a thriving population of gazelle, blue bull, wolf, Indian foxes, jackal, jungle cats, spotted and Indian sandgrouse, francolin partridge and bustard quails, etc.
A fast-falling dusk reminds you that you must get back into your vehicle and thank your Maker that it is driven by a local who can, in a pinch, navigate by the stars. And back to Dasada and Fatima Manzil, to a robust meal cooked by Sarfraz Malik's man for all seasons. Malik
is the descendent of the Nawab of Dasada and he has converted his 17th century palace into a fine hotel. It's a no-frills stay, but the food and the conversation with Malik are sparkling. A deep dark sleep in a four-poster bed, mosquito net and all-till you're woken up by the whoops of Sarfaraz and friends falconeering with a majestic Shaheen falcon. -Gouri Dange
Getting there: Dasada is a 2-hour drive from Ahmedabad and can be used as a convenient base for visits to the Rann. From Dasada there are transfers by local buses to Zainabad, the nearest place to the sanctuary. Dasada is 33 kms northwest of Viramgam station, which has
trains from Mumbai.
Staying there: Govt. Guest House at Dhrangadhra; Aaram Gruh at Dasada;
Fatima Manzil at Dasada. 0275782-40283; Hut Camp at Zainabad
079-6920105; www.gujarattourism.com

Lucknow

The mist over the Gomti should be reason enough

Great stories are told of Lucknow: of how the nawabs constructed the great imambaras to feed the poor during a famine, ordering the workers to build by day and the nobles to demolish by night to prolong the work. Improbable stories are told of Lucknow: of how the same
famine-stricken people built the same imambaras of rice and lentils and sugarcane juice to construct a building that would remain cool during the day. Equine stories are told of Lucknow: of nawabs who painted their horses and fed them so much that they could barely stagger.
Opportunistic stories are told of Lucknow: of Claude Martin, soldier of fortune who served the British, the French and the nawabs, and then founded the prestigious La Martiniere's school.
Architecture of Lucknow: Imambaras and Karbalas
A Hand-Book for Visitors to Lucknow: With Preliminary Notes on Allahbad and Cawnpore
Lawrence of Lucknow
Shaam-e-Awadh - Writings on Lucknow
The Guide to Lucknow: Containing Popular Places and Buildings Worthy of a Visit With Historical Notes on the Mutiny of 1857

Tragic stories are told of Lucknow: of how the high-ranking officers of the British army dined well from their secret hoards during the siege while the soldiers starved. Gustatory stories are told of Lucknow: these range from the demotic Tunde kababi in the old city to the lush extravaganzas of the nawabs. Your story? Go find it.
The Cannons of Lucknow (Alexander Sheridan Adventures, No. 4)
The Defence of Lucknow: T F Wilson's Memoir of the Indian Mutiny, 1857
Besieged in Lucknow - The experiences of the defender of 'Gubbins Post' before and during the seige of the residency at Lucknow, Indian Mutiny 1857

Getting there: AIR-You can fly in from practically anywhere now that Air Sahara has its hub in Lucknow. RAIL- Lucknow is serviced by the Northern and NE Railway networks. Charbagh Station is 3 km from the town centre. ROAD - UP Roadways offers an extensive network.
Staying there: For our money, it's the old-fashioned splendour of the Hotel Clarks Avadh though the Taj Residency runs a close second. www.up-tourism.com

 


Majuli
A river runs around it

The cultural capital of Assam, Majuli, is the world's largest riverine island.
Here the Brahmaputra begins to look like the sea. As you set off for Majuli, on a ferry filled with people, vehicles and animals, the other side is the horizon. An hour later, you haven't reached and you begin to understand why people scuttled for the shade. 

 Art Heritage of Assam 
 Assam District Gazetteers (Volume 3) 
Music of Assam: Tokari geet, Dhol, Khol, Pepa (musical instrument), Rudra Baruah, Bhupen Hazarika, Pratima Barua Pandey, Sangeet Natak Akademi International ... Zubeen Garg, Cleveland Thyagaraja Aradhana 
An Outline Grammar Of The Deori Chutiya Language Spoken In Upper Assam: With An Introduction, Illustrative Sentences, And Short Vocabulary (1895) 

The photographer with
you has been taken aside by a middle-aged man in a very colourful towel and has been asked, politely, not to take any photographs in which he features.
"Why?" asks Chiro."Because I am not supposed to leave my village,"
says the middle-aged man. He takes out a mangled plastic wallet and shows us an identity card that says he is an ULFA activist who has laid down arms. Welcome to Majuli. Sanjoy's Assam-Diaries and Writings of Sanjay Ghose (Penguin) suddenly feels real.There's another ferry ride and then we're on the world's largest river island and it is huge, 880 square kilometres of green and red. There are buses and autos and cars waiting on the other side to take us all
to Kamalabari, the largest town on the island. As we wait for the bus to depart, river dolphins begin a quick frolic, so fast that they're gone even before we've spotted them. Majuli is magic. For Majuli is Assam's cultural capital. Its satras (Vaishnavite monasteries and
religious nerve centres) still have hundreds of thousands of followers, and it is on the island that Assamese Vaishnavite Hinduism is practised in a form different from any other in India.
History of Assam: Assam, Indo- Aryan peoples, Austro- Asiatic languages, Tibeto- Burman languages, Ahom kingdom, Buranji, Ahom language, Assamese language, ... Mahabharata, Kalika Purana, Colonial Assam

Architecture of Assam
The Tea Soils of Assam and Tea Manuring
Mizoram: History of Mizoram, Music of Mizoram, List of districts of Mizoram, Lushai hills, Seven Sister States, Aizawl, Lunglei , Tripura, Mizo, Khampat, Assam, Chin State
Hill Tracts Between Assam and Burma
There were once 65 Vaishnavite monasteries here; the historic Manikanchan Sanjog was the first satra. Today, there are about 22. At the Auniati satra, founded by Niranjan Pathakdeva, there's a tribal museum that has preserved royal artifacts from the ancient Ahom
kingdom, along with a collection of Assamese handicrafts, utensils and jewellery. There's a sense of this island being a cocoon, a fragile shell. Each year, the Brahmaputra swallows a little more of Majuli, and its appetite is voracious. Unless something is done quickly, the world's largest river island will disappear, eroded entirely by monsoon floods. There's talk of starting a Majuli festival in January.
As a resident of Majuli said bitterly, "Festival? First there should be a Majuli." Go now.
Getting there: First you have to get into Guwahati. Take a bus to Jorhat. From Jorhat, you get to Nimati Ghat and then across. This is not a one-day trip.
Staying there: The satras offer dharmashala hospitality to anyone who turns up. The accommodation is spartan as is the food, but then that's part of the trip.
www.assamtourism.org

Mamallapuram
Statuesque beauty

Mamallapuram or Mahabalipuram, the stone-carving capital of India has been on the international tourist map for ever, but it is time now that the Indian traveller rediscovers this extraordinary town 65 kilometres outside Chennai. Stone sculpting has been a premier
activity here for over a thousand years and it continues to be the biggest employer, though these days it's more made-to-order statues for foreign tourists. Nevertheless it is a great sight to see half the town engaged in chiselling stone, day and night. 

But then you come to
Mamallapuram for its famous sculpted monuments. They are of four types-the open-air bas reliefs, structured temples, man-made caves and the rathas.
Perhaps nowhere is their sense of artistry and conviction more obvious than in the Five Chariots, a series of five monuments dedicated to the Pandavas. The sculptors took 24 years to almost complete the exteriors of the monuments. The men began work on the interior and actually completed one monument-that of Draupadi, when war broke out between
the Pallavas and the Chalukya king, Pulikesi. The hammer stopped hitting the chisel, and it stayed that way. The same fate befell several other structures, like the Varaha Caves and the Raya Gopuram. In the case of the Raya Gopuram, the men could work only on the
basement and the entrance before Pulikesi attacked. The sculptors, however, managed to finish Arjuna's Penance, arguably the biggest bas relief carving panel in the world. Based on the mythological tale of Arjuna undertaking a penance to propitiate the Rain God to bestow
rain, the panel is intricate and striking in its detail. It contains 154 sculptures, each sharp and distinct. Arjuna is seen still standing on one leg, though rain has at last come to the land. All its
inhabitants, including demigods, human beings, elephants, dogs and cats are expressing their gratitude to the great warrior.
Another structure that the sculptors managed to finish was the Shore Temple, one of the most photographed monuments in the country. They built seven such structures, but the proximity of the structures to the sea brought about the doom of six of them. Today, the only
remaining structure near the shore fights a daily battle for survival with the sea with help from the Archaeological Survey of India.
Mamallapuram will not disappoint you. You can also use it as a base to visit nearby places like the saree town of Kanchipuram, the new folk art museum Dakshina Chitra, Auroville or even Pondicherry.
Getting There: Mamallapuram is within driving distance of Chennai.
Staying there: Plenty of decent places. Golden Sun 0411-44985246;
Ideal Beach Resort 04114-42240. www.tamilnadutourism.org
The Great penance at Mamallapuram: Deciphering a visual text
2000 years of Mamallapuram
Mamallapuram and the Pallavas
Mamallapuram;: A guide, (Tamil Nadu. Dept. of Archaeology. T.N.D.A. pub. no. 5)
Mamallapuram, a guide to the monuments
Dravidian art (Mamallapuram: Ellora: Vijayanagar)

Mandu
City of joy

You might meet Lord Voldemort there. Why might you meet Voldemort at Mandu, Madhya Pradesh? It is rumoured that he was bent over, a frail man and wrinkled when he arrived at court. But he did not mind. His years of toil as an alchemist had paid off. Using arcane formulae and occult practices, he had finally discovered the Paras stone, the stone that could change base metal into gold. Abul Fazl, the Arabian visitor, tells us that the alchemist did not crave gold for himself.
Tribal Arts and Crafts of Madhya Pradesh (Living Traditions of India)
Pre-historic Archaeology of Madhya Pradesh
Flora of Madhya Pradesh
Medicinal Plants of Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh
A study of the tribal people and tribal areas of Madhya Pradesh (Bulletin of the Tribal Research and Development Institute)
A field guide on the Upper Vindhyans of Maihar, Satna District, Madhya Pradesh
FOLKLORE OF MADHYA PRADESH

He was a questor, a seeker, a man who sought answers for the sake of answers. And so he gave the stone to the king. The king used the stone to build a fortification on the hill. And he named it after Mandana, the alchemist who finally found the philosopher's stone. The stone
then vanished. Or the king might have used it to build a road there. For the road to Mandu might leave your backbone disconcerted but once you're there, you're likely to forgive and forget. This, after all is the city of the fabled love of Rani Roopmati and Baz Bahadur, even if
he didn't seem to be much of a hero, in retrospect. It is the city of the Hindola Mahal and the deep, dark waters of an underground passage running, so the guides will say, all the way to Delhi.
Shadiabad, 'TheCity of Joy', as the T-shirts describe it.Don't you believe it.
Mandu is not a city; it's a little town which you can walk around in five minutes. Believe the rest of it. That lake, that mahal, that mosque, that soft smell of burning wood: on the evening air, the odd evocative taste of baobab seedpods. Believe it. For that aesthete Emperor Jehangir once said, "There is no place so pleasant in climate or so pretty in scenery as Mandu in the rains."
Getting there: A five-hour drive from Indore will get you there.
Staying there: There's some decent MPTDC accommodation but nothing
much else. Try the Hotel Maharaja on Jahaz Mahal Road.
www.mptourism.com

Munsiyari
A playground for the gods

Brahma, while creating the Hindu universe, sensibly kept aside a sizeable chunk of its most beautiful part as a playground for the pantheon of his fellow Gods. This is Uttaranchal, or Dev Bhoomi, where some of the tallest mountains in the world look down upon mighty
glaciers birthing swift rivers, flower-bedecked meadows and deep, river-sculpted valleys. With a network of well-connected roads now, this region comprising of Garhwal and Kumaon has become an ideal driving destination within easy striking distance of Delhi.
The Delhi-Munsiyari-Delhi route will take you into both Garhwal and Kumaon. Munsiyari is still largely unknown, except to the cognoscenti. On the edge of the Gori Ganga as it makes its way down, Munsiyari is also the Johar Valley's gateway to the glaciers of Milam, Namik and
Ralam. Close by are the lakes of Maheshwari Kund and Thamri Kund and the Munsiyari Bugyal, a meadow full of Himalayan wildflower. One can plan a circuitous route out of Delhi:
Hardwar-Karnaprayag-Bageshwar-Munsiyari-Bageshwar-Almora-Kathgodam-Dehi, a distance of about 1,200 km, one of the most scenic routes in the world. The roads are in good condition, even up in the mountains and it makes for an easy drive with sensible stopovers. Allow for a week to 10 days to properly explore this region.
Getting there: To get to Munsiyari you can take a train to Kathgodam from either Delhi, Kolkata, Lucknow or Agra. Then continue by road to Munsiyari via Bhimtal, Bhowali, Almora, Barechina, Seraghat, Berinag and Thal.
Staying there: Accommodation is available at the Wayfarer Resorts,
Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam and the local Forest Rest House.
Contact: Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Limited, Uttaranchal, Tel :
91-5942 236356
www.kmvn.org

Orchha

French tourists, Mughal coins and a hill with a view I was looking at an awesome piece of metal carving in the Bastar tradition. It was a tree of life, about three feet tall, with men swarming up it, fighting, eating, sleeping, copulating (yes, yes, copulating) when my sister said to me: "Nous ne le voulons pas," in the pidgin French which we speak when we do not want the world to know
what we are saying. Behind the counter, Bhim Singh smiled, "Peut-etre, Madame ne le veut
pas," with a passable Parisian accent. It was an object lesson from Orchha. Later, on a walk down the hill, we counted the Indian tourists. There were four other than us. The rest were a mixture, predominantly French that year.
Next year, would the men selling stuff in the market learn Hebrew if the Israelis turned up?
"A few words at least," said Bhim Singh. "A few words go a long way in a foreign country."
Orchha is about as foreign as it gets. About 16 km from Jhansi (which is more railhead than anything else) Orchha was the capital of the Bundela kingdom in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was eventually abandoned in 1783 after being attacked by the Mughals and the Marathas. What is left is a patch of ancient palaces and temples, untouched by time, spectacular in their desolation. And while the whole won't take you more than a day or two, you can then work your
way onwards to Khajuraho or wherever else it is you're going to in Madhya Pradesh.
The palaces, the temples and the tombs were all built by the Bundelas around the 16th and 17th centuries. Although the Bundelas cremated their dead, they then built chhatris over the remains which has left Orchha a mass of spires and domes. The temples are not as architecturally interesting but when you have hill station weather, French speaking touts and some gorgeous buildings, surely that does not matter as much. -John Saul
Staying there: Hotel Sheesh Mahal may sound like one of those over-indulgent names but it is quite stunning.
Khajuraho: Orchha
Orchha Paintings
Art of India Orchha
Monuments of Orchha
Orchha: An ode to the Bundelas
Orchha: Travel Guide
Orchha (Monuments of Madhya Pradesh and their environs)

Getting there: From Jhansi, it's 18 km and you can take a bus (not recommended) or a taxi.
www.mptourism.com

Pachmarhi
A million shades of green

Madhya Pradesh's serene hill station (and its only one) stands at an altitude of 1067 metres. It is a large plateau, ringed by the lofty hills of the Satpura range. As you take a leisurely, long walk back from the hilltop shrine of Chauragarh, shrine to Mahadeo (another name for Shiva) it's the number of greens that makes this hill station rather special-tranquil emerald pools, the green shades that embrace the hills, and the thick, impenetrable forest cover that dominates the
region. One of its main attractions is the splendid view it offers at dusk, when the red sandstone scarp takes on the colour of the sky, in various shades of purple and violet, as the sun sets on Pachmarhi. For the rock-climbing buff, the Lanjee Giri hill is ideal for some real action. This hill can be scaled both from the east and the west. -Mignonne D'Souza
Man in Biosphere: v. 2: A Case of Study of Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserve
Tribes of Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserves
Biodiversity and vegetation of Pachmarhi Hills
Flora of Pachmarhi and Bori reserves (Flora of India)
Pachmarhi: Travel Guide

Getting there: The nearest railhead is Pipariya (47 km) on the Bombay-Howrah (via Allahabad) line. The nearest airport is Bhopal (195 kms), connected by regular flights with Delhi, Indore, Gwalior and Bombay. State transport bus services are available from Bhopal, Nagpur, Hoshangabad and Pipariya.
Staying there: MP Tourism rules, OK? It runs most of the hotels here. Some of the hotels available are the New Hotel, the Neelamber Cottages, the Satpura Retreat and Holiday Homes. www.mptourism.com

Peaceful Pondicherry
Pondicherry the Indo-French outpost...?

Pondicherry with its rich French past won't disappoint you. The beachside promenade Goubert Salai and the nearby Government place with its leafy French-provincial-style square surrounded by white stuccoed colonial buildings and parks with cropped hedges and lawns give the whole area a distinct Gallic feel. On the South side of the park is the Pondicherry museum with its treasure of historical ornaments and furniture including the famous French Governor Dupleix's four-poster bed. About 10 minutes drive away is the beautiful Botanical Garden
which was laid out in 1826 with clipped trees, exotic flower beds, gravel walks and fountains.
Of course, Pondicherry cannot be separated from two of its most distinguished 20th century residents, Sri Aurobindo and The Mother. The Sri Aurobindo Ashram is on Rue de la Marine and is among the wealthiest ashrams in the country. With its quiet tree-shaded courtyards it is a great place to spend an afternoon. The Mother's ashram, the famous Auroville is 10 kms north. It is spread over 22 square kilometres. The town plan is based on two concentric rings, the
inner one being the City area, and the outer called 'The Green Belt'. At the centre of this spirally formed, city stands the nearly completed meditation chamber, Matrimandir. The Matrimandir is a big crowd-puller for travellers from all over and it is not unusual to see
large groups of tourists visiting it and the adjoining gardens. The activities at Auroville are ecologically sound agriculture, environmental regeneration, education, renewable energy, building technology, handicrafts and small industries and village development.
All visitors are required to register with the visitor's centre. A casual visitor will need at least five to six days to be able to take in the large spectrum of activities that it offers. A large number of artists, architects, musicians, foresters, farmers, individuals and
families seeking an alternative way of life, arrive as long-term guests. Many stay on to become Aurovillians and live here permanently.
Getting there: Pondicherry is well connected by road and train from Chennai.
Staying there: The best place to stay in Pondicherry these days is the
Neemrana run Hotel De L'Orient 0413-343067, 343068, 343074, 346589.
www. neemranahotels.com
There are several other decent hotels as well. You can also stay at the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, which offers fantastic value for money. www.pondicherry.nic.in; www.sriaurobindoashram.org; www.auroville.org.
The Beautiful India - Pondicherry
Geology of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry
Social ecology of Pondicherry
Sea snails of Pondicherry
Folk Tales of Pondicherry
A House in Pondicherry
History of Pondicherry
Illustrated guide to the South Indian Railway (incorporated in England): Including the Tanjore District Board, Pondicherry, Peralam-Karaikkal, Travancore ... District Board and the Nilgiri railways
Pondicherry Town tourist guide
A grammar of modern Tamil (Pondicherry Institute of Linguistics and Culture publication)
On Yoga (Sri Aurobindo inernational university centre, Pondicherry, India. Collection)

Poovar
Another Kovalam in the making

Set amidst thick coconut groves, Poovar is the new hotspot on Kerala's burgeoning tourist map. With a host of resorts in place, it has all the trappings of becoming another Kovalam. Twenty km south of Kovalam, the drive takes one through some winding, undulating roads. Poovar
hamlet is set on the banks of river Poovar right at the point where it meets the Arabian Sea. It is this gift of location that serves the newly-emerging destination well. It's a wonderful meeting point of sea, river and land. And the arcadian approach through coconut plantations does the site no harm. Most of the resorts have speedboats and cruise boats to explore the wondrous setting.
Resort Isola Di Cocco (Island of coconuts in Italian) is probably the most favourably located. To the right of the property is the river while it faces the Arabian Sea. The stand out feature of the resort is its first floor restaurant with just a roof supported by columns and
open on all other sides. The sea breeze simply takes over.Great place to go on boat rides and observe the moods of the sea and river simultaneously. -Rajesh Mishra
Getting there Nearest railhead: Thiruvananthapuram. By road: About 20 kms from Kovalam
Staying there: Isola Di Cocco (www.isoladicocco.com); Poovar Island Resort (0471-212068/9) ;
Kerala Tourism: 0471-2322279

Ranthambore
Where the tiger reigns supreme

If there is one wildlife sanctuary in India where you are guaranteed to see tigers, three times out of five visits you can be sure that it will be in the Ranthambore National Park in Rajasthan. With a core area of around 390 square kilometres, this former private hunting ground of the Rajput kings of the region is among the smaller national parks of the country making it easier to sight a variety of animals. Apart from tigers, you can see plenty of chital, nilgai, jackals,
jungle cats and a variety of birds. Some believe the tigers here are less shy of humans than in any other sanctuary in the world. They laze in the sun and even hunt in full view of jeeploads of tourists. Entry into the park is permitted only for designated canters and jeeps
and is strictly controlled and regulated. So book your seat well in advance. But even if you don't get to see a tiger the very first time, you can always try a second or third time. If you were among the unlucky few who didn't get to see these gorgeous beasts despite
repeated attempts, you wouldn't go back disappointed because Ranthambore is a beautiful park with a large swathe of bushes that are fed by perennial rivers that have been dammed to create lakes around the sanctuary. Besides, you get to see plenty of royal ruins around from Ranthambore's regal past that would make the trip memorable. Just on the outskirts of Ranthambore are two beautiful tented hotels-the Vanyavilas which is part of the Oberoi chain and Sher Bagh owned and run by Jaisal Singh and Goverdhan Rathore. The luxury tents
with all the modern amenities are supposed to recreate the ambience of yore when Maharaja hunting parties used to create tented camps on their shikar run. Staying in them is an unforgettable experience, though at prices that run to hundreds of dollars, they are not within
the reach of everyone.
Wild Tigers of Ranthambore

Getting There: Unless you are driving from Jaipur or Udaipur, the best way to get to Rantham-bore is to take the train from Delhi or Mumbai to Sawai Madhopur.
Staying There: Sher Bagh 07462-52120 www.sherbagh.com; Vanyavilas
07462-23999; Sawai Madhopur Lodge 07462-20541; Ankur Resort 07462-20792.

Shekhawati
Land of the Marwaris

If you have had too much of the forts of Rajasthan, then it is worthwhile exploring the land from which emerged the spectacularly successful business community of the Marwaris. 'Shekhawati' as this region is called, sits north of Jaipur and the eastern tip of the Thar desert. For centuries, it lay on the caravan route connecting Delhi and Sind to the Gujarat coast, which brought about a huge amount of revenue in taxes to its people, largely the trading Marwaris. And the
Marwaris spent much of their money on building ostentatious and grand residences called havelis. Of varying shapes and sizes, these havelis which were built between the late 17th century and the early part of this century are distinctive in their architecture and the colourful
murals that fill their walls, both inside and outside. For those interested, it might be worthwhile buying a copy of Man's World contributor Ilay Cooper's painstakingly researched, The Painted
Towns of Shekawati. The havelis are spread over a large number of towns around the region. The big ones include Mandawa, Ramgarh, Nawalgarh, Dunlod, Mukundgarh, Chur, Fathepur, Jhunjhunu etc. While many of the havelis have been converted into heritage hotels, a large
number of them are still lived in, so the visitors will have to be careful when requesting owners to show you their houses. The ideal thing to do is to base oneself in a hotel at Nawalgarh or Mandawa and do the visits as day trips.
Getting there: Shekawati is about six hours by road from Delhi. Jhunjhunu and Nawalgarh are also connected by rail with the rest of Rajasthan and Delhi. You can fly to Jaipur and either drive down or take a train.
Staying there: A large number of towns in the region offer excellent accommodation. Some include Hotel Roop Nivas Palace in Nawalgarh -015974-22008;
Castle Mandawa in Mandawa - 01592-23124. The Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation has a full listing of the places on its website, www.rajasthantourismindia.com
The Painted Towns of Shekhawati. (book reviews): An article from: The Journal of the American Oriental Society
Princely Terrain: Amber, Jaipur and Shekhawati
Shekhawati: Rajasthan's Painted Homes
Les Cavaliers du Shekhawati
Shekhawati ; Die Bemalten Hauser Rajasthans
Rajasthan: The guide to painted towns of Shekhawati & Churu, with street maps

Silent Valley
Nature's womb

The first irony you'll notice about Silent Valley-the only remaining undisturbed tropical evergreen rainforest in peninsular India, located in the south-western corner of the Nilgiris, in the Western Ghats, in Palakkad district of Kerala-is that it is far from silent. It throbs
with the muted sounds of the forest: the wind kissing moss-laden tree trunks; the rustle of dead leaves as a rat snake hunts a toad; the slushy chomps of the giant Malabar squirrel as it shovels fruit into its jaws; the flapping of wings as a bunch of butterflies flutter out of the grass; the melody of a Malabar whistling thrush piercing through the roar of waterfalls, rain and the gurgling river. One popular explanation traces the origin of the name to the absence
of cicadas, insects that make a loud, shrill, chirping sound at night, a sound characteristically associated with a tropical forest environment. In actual fact though, you do hear cicadas in Silent
Valley even today. A more plausible explanation is that 'Silent Valley' is an
Anglicisation of Sairandhiri, the local name for the forest, also synonymous with Draupadi, the wife of the Pandavas. Another etymology traces it to the lion-tailed macaque, a medium-sized monkey with a long face and cheek pouches, scientifically named 'Macaca silenus'. InGreek mythology, Silenus is an aged woodland deity, with horse-ears,similar to the satyr.
Etymological nuances though, will be the last thing on your mind as you savour the delights and challenges of Silent Valley, a roughly rectangular tableland that extends over almost 90 sq km. In recorded history, no human has ever made Silent Valley his, or her home. The
topographic isolation of the plateau, cut off on all sides by steep ridges and escarpments, has prevented human habitation, and so the forests here remained undisturbed until the middle of the 19th century. That isolation has also allowed the Valley to endure as an 'ecological island', preserving the flora and fauna over the 50 million years that is said to be the evolutionary age of Silent Valley.
All along the 25 km Kuntipuzha river that runs through the valley is a catchment area with around 70 sq km of minimally modified 'climax' forests. Ecologists define 'climax' as the ultimate stage in the evolution of plant communities in equilibrium with the climate and
other environmental factors, which has developed in the absence of human interference. As a result, Silent Valley boasts of a wealth of biological and genetic heritage, a rare biodiversity.
The importance of its 'virginity', its bio-geographic isolation and the pristine uniqueness of its flora and fauna unsullied by human activities, lay at the roots of the movement to Save Silent Valley from a hydroelectric project of the Kerala State Electricity Board.
After over a decade (1977 to 1988) of environmental campaigning, media advocacy and assessments by expert committees, the government of Kerala was forced to declare the Silent Valley area as a National Park.
Today, the Silent Valley National Park is in the core area of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. Visitors are permitted only up to Sairandhiri, the spot of the proposed dam site, 23 km from Mukkali, a small town that houses the office of the Deputy Director of the Kerala
Forest Department.
The more intrepid traveller seeking to go deeper into the forest will have to get special permission from the Conservator of Forests, Northern Region, who is based at Palakkad. You can then choose from one of several trekking routes through the forest. Forest Department
guards will accompany you, not only to show you the way but also to make sure you do no damage to the area. Be prepared for a rough time. Trekking through Silent Valley is no picnic, for the forest paths
undulate with the terrain, which is sure to stretch your sinews. Also be prepared for the leeches. And a truly reinvigorating return to the womb of nature. -K G Kumar
Getting there: AIR-Peelamedu Airport, Coimbatore (155 km from the Silent Valley National Park). Coimbatore is the nearest airport and there are regular flights to other metros. RAIL - Olavakkode Railway Station, Palghat (75 km from the Silent Valley National Park). The
nearest railway station is Palghat connected to all the metros. ROAD - Regular buses are available to Mukkali, 20 kms from the Park. From Mannarghat bus stand (32 km from the Silent Valley National Park) too, one can get buses to the Silent Valley.
Staying there: Rest houses are available in the park to stay in, though not many facilities are available. It is difficult to get food inside the park so one should arrange in advance for food. One can also stay at Palghat, which has a good number of accommodation options
available. In Mukkali, the facilities are rudimentary and limited and accommodation is available in the Forest Department Rest House. (Tel: 91-492-453225

Siolim House
A different Goan experience

One writer calls it 'part palazzo/part home, part air/part light'. And it is difficult to disagree. Casa Palacio Siolim House located along the Chapora Village north of the famous Anjuna Beach, is a stunning new heritage hotel that is guaranteed to provide you a different Goan
experience. It is a 300-year old Portuguese manor house which was once the private residence of a Governor of Macau. Built in the Indo-Portuguese style of casa de sobrado so common in the 16 - 18th century, Siolim House was restored by the owners painstakingly over a
period of three years. It still features much of the period furniture and antiques including porcelain Chinese grills. The restoration effort got the property a nominee honour at the 2001 UNESCO Asia Pacific heritage awards for conservation. Siolim House features only seven suites but each of them is large and grand and named after 18th century trading ports on the Konkan coast. The large bathrooms in the suites still feature the stairs leftover from the 'Piggy Toilet' days. The inner, pillared courtyard retains its mosaic fountain and the step-well, which provides water to the hotel. The restaurant is open only to residents and their friends. The idea behind it is to provide as much privacy as possible, to the patrons. And when you feel like going out, beaches like Mandrem, Morjim and Ashwem are not very far.
Getting there: Siolim House is in Siolim Village in Bardez north of the famous line of beaches like Calangute, Baga and Vagator. Of course, you can get to Goa by air or train from all parts of the
country. Phone 0832-2272138 www. siolimhouse.com

Sitla

The Raj revisited

A wise man once said that the seashore will make you soar, the hills will ultimately depress you. He couldn't have been to Uttaranchal. In the Kumaon Himalayas lies a 39-acre property, remote, beautiful and peaceful. It is called The 'Sitla Estate'. The old world establishment is run by Vikram Maira, who in a different avatar made TV sitcoms. Now the 40-something cooks fabulous meals (we had Khao Suey, a Burmese dish and roast lamb with mint sauce) for residents and regales guests over drinks.
The estate is on the edge of a reserve forest and as far as the eye can see is a dense cover of oak and pine. Bears and panthers can be spotted but we were not lucky enough to see any. All of the five quaint rooms in the hundred-year-old British stone bungalow in the middle of the property face an amazing vista of white peaks looming in the distance. It is difficult to tell where the estate ends and where the forest begins. There is no town or commercial centre around the hotel and the newspapers arrive by early afternoon. It is truly a place where you
get far, far away from the maddening crowd. The Sitla Estate is the place you go to when you want to stare at scenic sights, read books, go for long walks and breathe pine-scented
pure air. The Kapleswar Mandir (5th century) is close by and it got built in a single day-apparently a large group of pilgrims stopped on their way and decided to set themselves the task of building a temple using the stone available on hand before they moved on.
And when you return to the urban surroundings and the every day routine of work and home, you realise that there is a simpler way of life somewhere up in the mysterious mountains that is perhaps attainable. -Arjun Sawhney
Getting there: An overnight journey from New Delhi. You have to catch the Ranikhet Express at 10 pm from the old Delhi station and you are at Kathgodam Station at 5 am. The estate is another three hours away and the hotel will organise a car to pick you up.
www.uttaranchal.gov.in

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
In the company of elephants

Thekkady, in the midst of the Periyar forest, is the ideal introduction for the whole family to the unseen delights of nature in all its pristine glory. A soft and rewarding exploration of the
evergreen forests of Kerala is what Thekkady and the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary have to offer the curious visitor. As you cruise on the Periyar Lake, you are almost certain to spot a
herd of elephants coming to the water's edge or even bathing in the lake. But if you wish to spot a tiger-you'll have to be more intrepid and choose to camp in one of the Forest Department's sanctuary watchtowers deep in the jungle. Even if you choose to be less adventuresome, there's plenty to see and do in and around Thekkady, from boating, camping, trekking and touring spice farms to riding elephants. All these activities are centred around Thekkady
Junction-the centre of the place and the passage into the sanctuary-and Kumily, the little town 6 km away that forms the main point of entry into Thekkady. One fascinating option to explore the forest in some depth is to take the Periyar Tiger Trail, a guided eco-tour that consists of a
three-day, two-night trekking and camping trip along a 30-km trail that traverses forests, lakes and waterfalls. The sanctuary is home to over 1,965 flowering plants, including 143 species of orchids. So be sure to pack your cameras. But don't even think of plucking an orchid
or two to take back home-remember, this is a sanctuary where responsible tourism is encouraged and that means no bio-piracy! Interestingly, your guides on the Periyar Tiger Trail are likely to be former poachers of cinnamon bark, who have now been 'rehabilitated'
into more socially productive roles. They will also cook for you along the trail, at campsites by the edge of the lake, an experience that will remain etched in your memory.
If you stay long enough, you might wish to check out some nearby destinations like Peermade, Grampi and Parunthapara ('Eagle's Rock', named for its shape). All these are plantation towns, sporting varying estates of cardamom, tea and coffee, set amidst surroundings so attractive that sore muscles will be quickly forgotten as you trek up yet another green trail. -K G Kumar
Willingness to participate in biodiversity conservation in Periyar Tiger Reserve: A contingent valuation (Working paper)

Getting there: Nearest airports: Madurai (136 km), Kochi (190 km), Thiruvananthapuram (265 km) Nearest railway station: Kottayam (114 km)
Staying there: Spice Village (Casino Group) (04869-2322316, Rs 4250 -
5800, spicevillage[at]vsnl.net
Lake Palace (KTDC) (04869 2322446, Rs 3250 - 7500, aranyanivas[at]vsnl.com)
Taj Garden Retreat (04869-2322403, Rs 2500,
retreat.thekkady[at]tajhotels.com)
Periyar House (KTDC) (04869-2322447, Rs 1000 - 2000,
periyar[at]sancharnet.in)

Vagamon
Paradise in the making

The first to discover the serene beauty of this hideout in the hills of Kerala were the Britishers, who promptly carpeted the undulating hills with tea plantations. More lately, it has become a frequent haunt of Malayalam film-makers who find the isolated, lush, green landscape ideal for both moody dreamscapes and loud, romantic romps. Welcome to Vagamon, the best-kept secret among hill station destinations. Perched 3,500 feet above sea level, Vagamon is 68 km
from Thekkady and 120 km from Kochi, the nearest airport. Driving down from Kochi via Kottayam and Pala will take you around five hours. The nearest railway station is Kottayam, 64 km and a two-hour drive away.It is a relatively remote region in a sparsely-populated area
comprising mostly of pristine, unspoilt, natural landscape of a diverse nature and rich in endemic flora and fauna. Thankfully for the tourist and nature lover, urban development in the area has generally been low. But expect all that to change soon and fast, for the very aggressive Kerala Tourism has set sights on making Vagamon the next big thing among destinations in God's Own Country. Thus, as a true tourist destination in the making, Vagamon today offers you signs of
construction of resorts and hotels and seeks to blend into the atmosphere of eco-friendly destinations. Though there are not too many good options for accommodation at present, in the next six months or so, expect to see some fancy properties laying out the red carpet for
tourists.
Walking up to the final station along the Way of the Cross at Kurisumala, a pilgrim centre for Christians, 10 km from the heart of Vagamon town, is well worth the trek, even if you are a non-believer, for the two km route offers some fascinating spots to rest your weary legs and gaze out at the distant towns of Pala and Thodupuzha, little specks of grey, white and brown amidst the green carpet of terraced tea plantations.
Also worth visiting is the Kurisumala Ashram, three km from the market centre at Vagamon. Set up in 1955 by Abbott Francis Acharya, a Belgian Cistercian monk, the Ashram is off-bounds for vehicles, but visitors can walk around the calm and meditate in the campus that is set amidst
beautiful and well-manicured gardens. On the Pullikkanam Road, inside the 300-acre Thankakanam Estate is Vagamon Heights, a resort and proposed residential complex that offers
a range of classy, upmarket accommodation as well as options for adventure sports and outings in the wilderness. For Rs 400 a night, you can stay in the Morris Bungalow, an old cottage built by a British planter. Other options for staying include the Windshadows Guest
House, the Woodpecker Tree House and tents, which are available for Rs 350 per person.
Staying there: Vagamon Heights (Tel: 04869-248206. Tariff: Rs 350 - 1,000 for tents, treetop houses, bungalows. Also offers a range of adventure sports. E-mail: crsptd[at]vsnl.com, crsptd[at]sancharnet.in
Erattupetta website: www.wildorchidvagamon.com

Valley of Flowers
Stairway to heaven

Twilight had set it when we began pitching our tents. We were worried whether it would be too dark by the time we finish but thankfully, the moon gave us good company. Tired after our uphill trek of 14 kilometres, we decided to hit the bed early. We needed rest for the
Big Day tomorrow-the trek to the Valley of Flowers. The hike from Govindghat, the last road head to Ghangaria was quite tough but the beauty of the surroundings kept us going at a steady
pace. But, even though you are high up in the mountains, it is not often that you relish the 'fresh mountain air'; you're more likely to make a face after getting a whiff of fresh horseshit, of which copious amounts dot the narrow path all the way to Ghangaria!
Early next morning after washing up in a cold mountain spring, we set off on a trail that is among the prettiest in the world. From our campsite near Ghangaria, the trek to the Valley of Flowers was only around five kilometres, but we took a good four hours to complete the
walk; with the wealth of beauty all around us, we could be excused for stopping oh-so-many-times en route to take photographs.
At an altitude of about 12,000 feet, the Valley of Flowers is truly an enchanting place-green meadows, snow-capped mountains, the Pushpawati winding its way down from the glaciers and of course, flowers of so many different hues. Wordsworth would have freaked out. The Valley of
Flowers, situated in the Chamoli district of Uttaranchal, was declared a national park in 1982. It was in 1931, when British mountaineer Frank Smythe discovered the valley, while on his way back after an expedition to Mt Kamet. His book titled The Valley of Flowers,
published in 1938 brought renown to this lovely Himalayan meadow. As soon as you leave Ghangaria, the path splits into two, with one going to the Valley of Flowers and the other climbing up to the revered Sikh shrine, Hemkund Sahib. Picture a lotus-shaped Gurudwara
situated 14,300 feet up on a mountain peak. Now visualise a crystal-clear lake (in this case, it is not just a cliché) with mountains and glaciers surrounding it; one side of the lake spreads
out into the hillside with exquisite flowers like the Himalayan Blue Poppy and the Brahma Kama-the flower of God. The climb to Hemkund is quite steep and much more difficult compared to the one to the Valley of Flowers. But this didn't prevent the elderly woman of about 65, whom I happened to meet on the way. She was walking barefooted with just a wooden stick and chants of Wahe Guru for support! I was quite distraught to notice this, and all of a sudden, felt embarrassed of my expensive hiking boots and aluminium alloy (adjustable) trekking pole.
Well, it's all in the mind, as they say...
Gazing at the distant mountains from deep inside the Valley of Flowers is a near spiritual experience. It was like being in one of Monet's paintings, maybe in his Garden at Giverny. Straight-ahead was a panoramic view of the snow-covered Ratban peak and below, extending
all the way to the river, was a carpet of red, blue and yellow flowers swaying in the breeze.
An uneven path branches into the wilderness, taking you to the tombstone of Joan Margaret Legge, a botanist from London. In 1939, Margaret was collecting a floral specimen in the Valley when she fell to her death. A memorial was later erected in the heart of the Valley
of Flowers. Her soul now rests in one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Locals call the place 'Devbhoomi', the land of the Gods and mercifully no construction is allowed in the valley. In fact, no cattle grazing is allowed either. There is no place to stay and you are expected to leave the valley before sundown. No wonder the place looks so unspoilt
as ever. As a traveller, when you reach this paradise on earth, there is nobody else, it's just you and the mountains. On our way back to Govindghat, we stopped to take a breather at a
small teashop. Running a shop 3,000 metres above sea level must be an experience in itself! Teenage owner Ganga Singh, has drawn a moustache on his face to look grave, to do some 'serious' business. He pointsour gaze towards the 22,000-foot Hathi Parbat on the horizon, and tells us we are lucky to have seen its crown. Usually, the peak is enveloped in mist and to get a glimpse of the summit is not easy. On the final night we pitched our tents on the banks of Alakananda, a few kilometres upstream of Karnaprayag. The mountains behind us, river a
couple of feet away, the Valley of Flowers at a distance, the starlit sky and a good campfire, you couldn't have asked for any thing more. -Aravind Nair
Getting there: The nearest railhead is Haridwar, after which you can take a bus or taxi to Chamoli or Joshimath for the night halt. Taxis and buses going to Badrinath can drop you off at Govindghat where the trek begins. You can drive too but there is a 'gate system' and
traffic is not permitted after dark, especially during the monsoons. Or you can fly into Jolly Grant, 25 km from Dehra Dun. Indian Airlines has regular flights from Delhi to Jolly Grant.
Staying there: Ghangaria offers accommodation facilities for all budgets. Hotel tariffs vary between Rs 150 and Rs 800. The GarhwalMandal Vikas Nigam is another good option. Free basic accommodation is available at the Gobind Dham Gurudwara. Travellers are not allowed to
stay in the Valley and advised to return to Ghangaria before sundown. www.uttaranchal.gov.in
THE VALLEY OF FLOWERS
Valley of Flowers
Wandering in the Valley of Flowers

Valley of Flowers, Myth and Reality

Varkala
Golden cliffs, tonic waters

Varkala is today what Kovalam was in the late 1970s and 1980s-a quiet, under commercialised beach destination, not yet a major dumping ground for charter tours and dollar-wielding amigos, still not a place where international skins get tanned at a leisurely pace, unfettered by rave
parties and ogling marauders. But it's fast catching up and may well follow the Kovalam route to mediocrity and all-round collapse of infrastructure and standards. Today, Kovalam is a mere memory of the beach haven that seasoned sun worshippers from around the world headed
to when they got bored of Goa. The main beach, a narrow strip, is at the foot of a 32-m cliff of red laterite, on top of which can be found most of the lodges, restaurants and shops that cater specifically to the traveller. The massive red cliffs that rise abruptly from the shoreline lendVarkala its uniq ueness, for not only are they visually striking, but they are also
full of perennial mineral springs that are reputed to have rejuvenating and curative powers. You'll often find the locals bathing under one of these springs and now visitors have caught on too. After a dip in the sea, getting splashed under the natural springs beats the
hotel showers any day! As with most destinations in Kerala, Varkala too has a vast range of
Ayurvedic treatment centres on offer for the health-conscious visitor or anyone with a sudden lark for a relaxing rubdown. The quality of service varies and some of the centres offer impossibly exotic combinations like Swedish and ayurvedic massages in one healthy
package! There is also a nature cure centre that has won some reputation. If you'd like to sample a dose of Kerala's famous kathakali dance performance, head for the Devaswom Building, near the Janardhana temple tank at the Temple Junction. Evening performances from 6.45 pm
to 8.15 pm, with commentary in English, are offered every Sunday, Wednesday and Friday during the peak December and January months, by the Varkala Cultural Club for Rs 100 per person. Also worth visiting is the fishing hamlet of Anjengo, around 15 km away, on a route that takes you along the beach and past the thatched huts of Muslim, Christian and Hindu fisher-folk, amidst a welter of fishing nets and fish left to dry in the sun. Anjengo (called 'Anchuthengu' in Malayalam, and meaning 'five coconut palms') was the site for the first factory set up by the British East India Company in 1684 and also a fort, the outer wall of which remains as a protected archaeological monument and a reminder of the days of yore when the spice route led all the way to this southern tip of India. -KG Kumar
Getting there: The nearest airport is at Thiruvananthapuram, 40 km away while the nearest railway station, Varkala, is 2 km away. Varkala is also linked by motorable roads to the rest of Kerala.
Staying there: Taj Garden Retreat (0472-2603000, retreat.varkala[at]tajhotels.com,
Rs 2900 - Rs5200; Sea Pearl (0472-2660105, seapearlvarkala[at]vsnl.com, Rs 400 - Rs 1000; Skylark Cliff Beach Resort (0472-2602107), Rs 200 - Rs 300.

Vythiri
In Tarzanland

In the midst of the Nilgiri hills in the northern Wayanad district of Kerala, Vythiri remained known only to the British who were the first to set up coffee and cardamom plantations there. But lately, thanks to the pioneering efforts of tour operator Babu Varghese (who also
introduced the riceboats-turned-into-houseboats that today dot Kerala's backwaters), Vythiri is home to several eco-resorts, all vying for the tag of "most eco-friendly and natural" place to stay
amidst evergreen rainforests and coffee, tea, cardamom and pepper plantations.
The main-and perhaps only-purpose of coming to Vythiri is to laze, contemplate your navel, read and ruminate on life's great mysteries. Unlike doing it on the toilet seat or under the lamplight on a park bench, the thrill of Vythiri is that you can do it 90 feet above the
ground, within kissing distance of the rainforest canopy, in theblessed silence of nature's wonders. Babu Varghese's Green Magic Treehouse Resort, a cluster of treehouses
and eco-lodges constructed in the rainforest canopy 26 metres above the ground and in 500 acres of private forest land offers you everything Tarzan did not have-a wraparound balcony with wooden banisters, coir matting and rattan chairs, a proper sit-down loo and
(cold) shower, and a bamboo-walled double-bedroom. To reach the Green Magic treehouses, you literally haul yourself up in an ingenious wicker-and-cane lift that uses water as a counter-weight. Being way beyond the reach of mosquitoes, you can roll up the blinds at night
and fall asleep wrapped in a cotton sheet and the tropical night air. The treehouses were built over a period of five months, by a team of local Paniya tribesmen, who are well-versed in the art of making secure sleeping platforms, called erumadam. It was their traditional
skill in building such treetop platforms that inspired the project.The Paniya tribals, who were displaced from the forest when it was declared a national heritage zone, now help build and maintain the treehouses.
Everything about the Green Magic treehouse experience is designed to drive home the point that nature rules. Power comes from solar-generated energy, water from a mountain lake a mile away, light from kerosene lamps-and of course, the sun and the moon. And room service? Just lean over the balcony and holler and your meals will be hoisted up in a cane basket! You can even choose to see how the cooking is done, for Babu Varghese encourages a hands-on, open-access, transparent travel experience. The cooking is done over a gobar-powered fire (the dung comes from the half-a-dozen bullocks in the resort). The vegetables used in the
resort are grown in an organic garden on the hill, cooked with local spices and served with rice, lentils or rotis on plantain-leaf plates. Visitors also have the option of exploring a number of walking trails, each promising a different adventure and designed to blend in with the
surroundings. Should you wish to step back into the normal world for a moment or two, Lakkidi and Pookote Lake are two nearby destinations worth a visit. But in all likelihood, you'll want to remain inside your treehouse. And if you have your Jane with you, all the merrier.
And don't worry, the treehouses may sway, but they're designed to withstand adult pleasures!
Getting there: Nearest airports: Calicut (85 km), Kochi (290 km), Bangalore (290 km).
Nearest railway station: Calicut (62 km) Staying there: Green Magic Treehouse Resort, tourindia[at]vsnl.com, Tel:0471-2331507. Rs 4000 - Rs 8000 Greeshmam Resort, greeshmamresorts[at]eth.net, 04936-2655716, Rs 1250

Yercaud
Mystic mountain

There is nothing flamboyant about Yercaud's beauty. It is subtle,
insidious, its green magic seeping gently into your bloodstream,
cleansing it of all the accumulated toxins of urban life. At the
2000-year-old Shervarayan temple, the atmosphere is quiet and
expectant, the breeze more bracing. You get to the shrine via a long
cave through which you have to walk, bent almost double. The
atmosphere is austere and dark, and through the lamplight you can
discern the two idols of Lord Shervarayan (a manifestation of Vishnu)
and Goddess Kaveri Amman. The temple is managed by the local tribals,
and it is novel to find an old woman presiding over the place, instead
of the ubiquitous Brahmin priest.
According to legend, the cave extends right up to the source of the
Kaveri river in Coorg. Don't try proving it; many have, none has lived
to tell the tale. Outside the temple is a well that is also frequented
by visitors. It is customary to stand at a particular distance with
your back to the well and aim three stones at it. If even one falls
in, it is believed that your deepest desire will be fulfilled.
If devotion doesn't make your visit worthwhile, the view from the top
will. You see misty vistas of coffee, silver oak and pepper trees, and
at a distance, the shadowy silver smudge of the Mettur Dam reservoir.
-Arundhathi Subramaniam
Getting there: The closest airport is Trichy but it's probably Chennai
you will hit. After that you can drive to Salem (or take the train)
and then a car up to Yercaud.
Staying there: The Sterling Resort has a wonderful view, a great
restaurant and an idyllic location.
www.tamilnadutourism.org


Aurangabad - Bibi Qa Maqbara? or the baby taj, phenomenal, and an exact replica of its more famous counterpart, but with next to no people!

Ellora Caves - just awe inspiring, such a mix of styles in such a small area.

Arambol and Benaulim, Goa - great places to start / finish an Indian trip and get some beach time

Hampi - another top spot, particularly enjoyed being able to just hire a bike and take off to no where in particular.

Mysore - my favourite Indian city, the illuminated palace of a weekend was magical

Belur & Hallebeedu - some amazing architecture in friendly villages in the Kartanakan countryside

Trekking in Kodagu - enjoyed a great 3 day / 2 night trip from Madikeri into the hills (and temple towns) of Coorg Region

Bylekeppu? - Tibetan monastery and golden temple - not what I was expecting to see in South India, but nevertheless spectacular

Bidar - fantastic (deserted) fort and friendly town

Bijapur - another gem in northern Kartanakan with fantastic buildings inundating the place

Badami - had an enforced stay there due to an op on an abscess on my big toe, and plenty to see and do over the week I was there

Pondicherry - great (non-Indian) food and a lovely pedestrianised walkway, made it a relaxing getaway from the Tamil Nadu bus system!

Senji Fort - the best fort I explored, and hardly a soul there. Great views and similar scenes to beautiful Hampi countryside

Tanjore - enjoyed Pongal Harvest festival there, and just enjoyed its vibe and its 1000 year old temple. Many other temples / palaces to see in the area.

Madurai - another mad paced Indian city, apart from the Mahalaxmi temple, car free and fantastic carvings and gompuras

Rameshwaram - another sacred spot, with a spiritual vibe even for a non-Hindu. Great trip out to the bleak Adams Bridge, and another lovely spot to get lost on a bike.

Alleppey - beaut spot, could have spent weeks if not months there - incredibly friendly people, verdant countryside and setting - just a lovely place and well deserving of Gods Own Country.

Munnar - the highland equivalent of Alleppey - just a lovely place to wander amongst the tea and cardoman plantations.

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary - the most accessible and back to nature of reserves, that allows you time to explore the park (and stay overnight in a treehouse relatively cheaply).

Mudumalai in Tamil Nadu was another spot where it was possible to spend some time in the Western Ghats, and not Disneyland.

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